go ahead and use the 50/80 grits. Take your time and give extra strokes as you increase your grits. If you have been working heel to tip, then change and run tip to heel. Just like in sanding wood and polishing plastics, and glass you have to break down the abrasion scratches into smaller and smaller bits.

Even some of the not so super steels take a good while to reprofile. A certain Becker#2 in 1095CrV comes to mind... Still it has a near mirror finish.

440 series stainless steels used to be concidered supersteels 30 yrs ago.

For an unassuming and inexpensive knife, in Sandvik 12c27m you can't beat a Opinel. Well you can but why try at the price. They aren't fancy, and nobody will want to steal them or probably confiscate one cause they are so unassuming. If you want to mod them you can...

You'd think the thin blades would fold up or break but I have cut steaks and raw carrots, wittled a little wood with the #8. Even cut cut down some old growth green briar(devils ivey) here with it. It will still take the hair off my arm after abuse. It does need a few passes on the WE now though.

I may have to get a few Opi's for Christmas presents for the boys...

Tapes rely on contact to make the mechanical bond, the more uneven/unpolished the surface the less mechanical bond there will be.

We used to use M77 to mount masks to blast granite stones and memorial markers. Then the cleanup would be with Naptha, cause that stuff didn't want to come off the stone.

Chances are high a good rubber cement for countertops/formica installation would work fine, you just need to bray it onto the paddle and the stone evenly, so you don't get any humps, or off angles, when pressed together.

As one would say in the far northeast, "That is Wicked-Cool, eyah!"

While probably not part of this problem, but polypropylene is in a group of plastics refered to as self lubricating, and most adhesives won't stick to them relatively very well or for extended periods of time.

I wonder if he has a scissor attachment?...

Billabong wrote:


That brand wasn't listed in any catalog I looked in and I did go through 20 at least.

None had the rubber dust cover.

Oh Well.

I have searched several US parts houses. While there were many similar, not the same. None with that part number that I found.

Not that I have to have them but how much would they be in US$ plus shipping to the US?

Thanks.

The WEPs makes things sharp, pointy and possibly dangerous. I don't think Oprah'll put it on her list...

However, Martha might put it on her list of "Good Things."

I would like a longer set of jaws that could hold flexible knives and make them inflexible during sharpening. Fishing/boning knives can be done incrementally, but I would prefer to get longer strokes on the blades.

great job on the video.

on the play in the joint between the rods and the black elbow, I pulled the assemblies off the sharpener and gave them a tweek in my arbor press to tighten them up. now almost no play from side to side.

I have the same ultra sonic cleaner. I never considered US-ing my stones. Yours is also much cleaner than mine... both the stones and US.

Had to look twice at your stone you used in the video. My 800/1000 stones are yellow and baby blue.

Great idea! Perfect for storing about the shop, to keep everything together and out of the way.

But, but... NO PHOTOS???

Very handsome your pockets should be proud to carry such knives.

If you will be doing this mod for someone in the near or even distant and unforseeable future, could you make a video of it please?

Clay that would be very handy indeed. Will the Matrix be printable? And will I have to fight off any Agent Smiths?


How many applications will the average user get from a bottle of the diamond sprays?

The problem with cooking oils is that they will go rancid, petroleum based light machine oils and kerosene oils will become gummy with age, were as the industrial synthetic oils don't, typically... As with all lubricants YMMV.

Thanks for posting the data from Sandvik. It does look like better steel than I thought.

As a side note, I don't think I have ever had a pocket knife or sheath knife rust or corrode. Even my cheap edc has never had a spot of rust on it, and well, living on the beach and sweating in the garden and yard in the summer time you do get both salty and sweaty. I don't necessarily remembering giving the knives in my pocket or yard pouch any extra care other than wiping them down and giving a little sharpening love, even when I couldn't sharpen worth beans...

Yeah the SS 12C27M Opi's are shaped and the primary grind is put on them but they are only good for opening mail and buttering toast as they are delivered. The carbon Opi's come with a presharpened edge.

The blades are so thin you would think they can't take an edge. If the blade does, you think the blade will turn to metal origami during use, but it has handeled over-cooked steak, chops and chicken, bread, veggies as well or better than my cheap old $10 440 pocket knife, which also has a wicked edge on it btw...

I can't say I own any super steel knives. I wouldn't mind having one, but now I can sharpen and keep sharp my old cheap steel. That and I am cheap, er... frugal.

I have been eyeing an unused parting tool on my woorkbench that is M2 steel though...

Hmmm, Opinels in SS are made with Sandvik 12C27M. I know mine took a whole lot longer than 3 minutes to raise the initial burr. But then, they are shaped but not sharp when you get them and you have to put an edge on them.

You are right, the steel does hold an edge for a very long time.