cbwx34 wrote:


I guess ignorance is bliss in your case. Another FYI just for you.

An endoscope (or recording microscope) works wonders in this department, allowing a standard match to take place (i.e. a .5mm pencil lead) in comparison to the bevel. Just an FYI

This is where magnification is your true friend. It is up to the person driving the stones to know when to burr or not to burr. I personally always adhere to the "Save the metal club rules" just to be safe.

A micro bevel is a application type item. You first really have to know what you are going to do with it. A couple of questions would be: Do I want to push cut? Do I want to slice? or do I want a show blade?

Also, are you putting this micro on a LH or RH knife? A X/Y split? or just a symetrical folder? Are you really wanting a convex edge for the application or a true micro?

All of these things make up and go into the application of the edge. The idea is to get as small of an edge as possible that will do the work (keep all the steel you can).

If you just want a micro to put one on your edge, just pick an angle number higher than your secondary or primary bevel (i.e. 22 Deg gets a ten stroke 5k stone at 25 Deg). Use a scope to tell how the steel reacts, and then go from there (watch for chipping, rolling, and plastic deformation).

Micros are nice on some knives and will work well ... they also can ruin your last thirty minutes of work.

Once you switch over to real waterstones you will not go back (IMHO).

Listen to Wayne, he knows.

If you have the ability to make a short video of your sharpening and set-up technique I am sure the forum will help out. A picture is worth a thousand words (at times).

Great proofs HM!

Better, maybe? But, better than what?

IMHO that is still a very rough edge definition (especially if a high end knife), even if the sharpener took their time. If I saw that on a Masamoto I would have to go change my underware.

I use an endoscope with 200x and find it to be more than adequate for edges.

Hey HM,

Great shots!

I preach this exact subject all the time (hand vs. belt). It is amazing the friction you get from people on this subject.

Hey DFS! See your PM ... in your PM box

PhilipPasteur wrote:


Phil you are all over it. The "ART" of sharpening.

KenBuzbee wrote:


Nania SS will form a paste or will not form a paste depending on how "YOU" use them. They are a splash and go stone. Keep them wet and they will provide a nice paste base that will polish very well. Let them dry as you use them, and they will start to cut and impinge.

I have used the SS line for quite a while now and for the cost/performance they are very tough to beat.

Yes, you can stitch up a sword in the WE ... it is painful though. Most of the people that actually want a sword sharpened bought their item at the flea market and the steel is shady at best. Those that buy a real Japanese sword (or any real item) tend to have them hand sharpened. Hand sharpening a sword is painful as well and many after they see the cost say: Ummmm, OK ... I will get back with you.

A typical Wakizashi (small or short sword) is around $150.00 for me to do it by hand and is easily a six to eight hour job with hand stones.

I sell a few stones for the WE, I use stones daily sharpening knives, and I like the feedback of stone so, I am biased.

STOP HERE IF YOU WANT TO ARGUE, PLEASE! LOL

Here goes:

Stones have worked great for thousands of years and many a knife maker uses stone to perfect their creations (QED). Natural stone is a great way to sharpen knives that are used in acute work, and my preferred method for knives used in high end ($$$) culinary environments.

I do like diamond plates for repair work, profile, and flattening stones of course due to their speed. Diamond can last a long time, just depends on what you do with it. Is diamond a great thing for every knife? Not in my opinion (yes, everybody has one … many stink). One thing that I love a diamond plate for is sharpening junk knives (you know, the $10.00 knife brought to you to return a $400.00 one).

Auto sharpener usage: Only if you like paying to replace high end knives. I get them all the time from the local “boutique” knife shop that have been experimented with. Somehow people associate “Chef’s Choice” with a sharp knife. I am at a loss there. I also seem to get many knives after they have been across the sharp maker … maybe it is just my market. The people all say the same thing: It was sharp for a few strokes.

Belt sander, fast but furious and you can do a lot of damage quickly to an expensive knife. Yes, you can mount a VFD to slow the belt down (can be a tough mod) and "yes" some people are great with a belt (I use one, I am still learning at year twenty-nine). If you are creating knives from plasma cut blanks this is truly the way to go … I don’t do that kind of work (but I do put a final on many custom knives from local makers, mostly hunting/skinning).

I have to say though, using stones by (freehand, WE, or whatever) makes it much easier to produce a quality product (sharp knife) as you have much more control over the sharpening process (IMHO). One last thing, I also find I have much less stropping to perform (except razors) when using stone.

But, with all of this my final take is this:

"It is all about application and what are you going to do with the knife."

YMMV.

I have posted on this before somewhere on the board (too lazy to look). I used my own naniwa stone setup and stropped with thick balsa using some CBn spray. YMMV

i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m599/SPIN1963/DSCN0115.jpg

Hey WM,

Well, you have hit on a sore spot with using plates and stones to sharpen serrations (I am sure there will be flamers on this, flame on). Yes, you can turn the stones at angles while doing a particular dance but good luck. Also, this method can ruin serrations in a few strokes if you are not very very careful.

One of the ways that I do it is with special ceramic tubes from coorstek (think $$$). The problem with this method is the cost, most people will not pay the fee to have them sharpened by these tools. It has been a losing operation for me to use these tools (thus far) and they still are not paid off even remotely.

The second (less effective) way is to use a thick balsa strop and groove the strop to mate with the serration, use a high grit paste, and work the area until you get a decent burr. This way is a cheaper way but again you are looking at time to complete the job and again people complain at the cost ... it is murder either way. Good Luck!

Any pictures of said blade possible? Initial is find a belt grinder but tough to say without pictures.

[/quote]

Thanks, Steven. I got exactly the same advice from someone else as well. Is this your own experience or some sort of "common knowledge"?[/quote]

I won't dwell on it, but I think it's specious reasoning to tie results to one particular stone.[/quote]

Dwell all you want and you would be wrong again. I don't care if you (or anyone) buy my stuff for sale or not, I have happy customers. Proof is in the pudding (as is shown by other's advice).

15k shaptons, you need a little tooth.