The parts should never have had the black screws. They were designed with the pointed #10-32 screws to match the detents on the degree bar. The machine shop took a liberty with substituting the screws to save cost, not realizing the significance of their function. We're working rapidly to get it resolved. It will involve sending out correct, replacement L-Brackets along with return labels so we can get the incorrect ones back. We should have a timeline within a few days. We're waiting for the full list of people needing the parts to come in.

Martin,
I put some dry graphite on the straws. This reduced the added friction to where it is not objectionable (hardly notice it). I tried several other lubricants but they did not work well. Any of the liquids would either dry out too fast or capture filings and other contaminants and gum up.

At first I tried to sharpen as fast as some of the videos I have seen show it. I found that slower deliberate strokes give me better results. Of course, when I am sharpening with the WEPS, it is for recreation and the pusuit of perfection, and I don't mind the extra time. If I want a sharp knife fast, I spend 5 minutes with the belt grinder

Phil


MartinSinger wrote:

My solution would be... don't use them! Even if there is a bit of play between the holder and the rod, as evidenced by the numerous videos, posts, and microscope pictures, it doesn't hinder getting knives sharp. If you're finding it a problem, just try adjusting your grip slightly.

cbw

I think I'd take them both to 20 degrees per side at 3.5um and see how they perform. If the edge isn't holding up, then you can add a little micro-bevel at 22-23 degrees per side. I've done a lot (hundreds) of field dressing and even my AUS-8 knives hold up well in the 20-22 degree range.

MartinSinger wrote:

Hey Marty. What are you hunting and what is the steel of the knives in question?

MartinSinger wrote:

DustinKampel1 wrote:


I haven't obtained the Subway straws yet but has anyone tried the removable rubber cement use to temporarily bond paper? When you want to remove it just rub it off. I eil try it when I finally get the straws and report back.

Hey Everyone!

I recently picked up some subway straws to attempt to take some of the play out of the rods to the WEPS. They are fantastic! However I am consistently running into a problem with them coming off the rods. I have tried to superglue them on the rods as well and use zip ties. I was hoping someone out there has a solution to this problem!

Thanks everyone in advance for all the amazing wisdom. Everyone on here rocks.

D

Just curious what others do if there's damage or work needed (beyond sharpening) to their blade... fix a broken tip, remove major chips out of the edge, fix a reverse bow, reduce a bolster, etc. Do you use the Wicked Edge? Other equipement? Freehand? Send it back to the maker or to someone else? Live with it? Throw it away? Something else?

I personally have access to other equipement, like a belt sander, to do major repairs. Just wonder what others do, especially if the WE is the only thing you have available. What do you do?

cbw

MartinSinger wrote:


Martin - I wouldn't hesitate a moment to do what you're talking about. I've had great results on a lot of Shuns doing just what you're suggesting. My advice is to go about it gently - they only need a tiny bit of work on the micro-bevel. Use a marker to find the exact angle match and then do a few stokes, probably with the 600# stones unless there are a lot of chips you want to take out, to raise a burr. Once you've raised the burr from each side, then proceed gently with the 800 and 1000 grit stones using alternating strokes and light pressure. Proceed to the 3k paper with the same technique and you should have great results.

Finally received my ceramics and was able to get a mirror edge on my Spyderco Pacific Salt after stopping at 1000 grit just the other day. It was very cool to see the edge just refine in the progression.

I will get some pics sometime this weekend and post back.

I also have a funny little "gotcha" to post about my WEPS. More coming up...

Dan and Christopher have made excellent suggestions. I will make the angle adjustment mods/refinements and remove the arm pivot slop today. If I don't have everything needed in my shop then on to the hardware store.

Has anyone tried Lexan Plexiglass for the film? I have a pretty good supply here.

Thanks for all the help. I hope to be able to recripricate soon.

No misunderstanding... maybe a bit of different methodology on the paint.. I have some 10,000 grit polish


Just curious, how did you mount the lapping film?
I was thinking that if you used them on one of the stock stones, and did not reset the angle ..
well just the thickness of the film may have changed the angle enough that you never were working the edge of the edge. Not sure why it would have gotten duller, but maybe you were polishing the bevel only.

The 500 strokes per side with the 3 micron (is that what you meant by "mil" ?) lapping film would take a really long time to re-profile the bevel so that you would get to the edge, if the angle was changed (decreased in this case, by adding thickness to the stone).

Do you use an angle cube to set your angles, or some other device that can read angles to 0.1 degrees?
If not, perhaps what I am thinking might make some sense.

If using the stock angle settings, perhaps you might try increasing the angle by a degree and doing maybe 50 to 100 strokes per side. This would add a micro-bevel and make sure you are actually getting to the edge of the edge with your film. You might be happy with the result!

Phil

MartinSinger wrote:


so you have me a little confused here (not an unusual state for this old man ) let's take this in turn of each of your comments : so you would object to your edges scratch free at 100X? ..: Clays objection may be to the only know hazard of high spec films and that is the flex of the backing, but there is a lot of leather stropping going on here-abouts, so I hardly could take that point of argument seriously. : less expensive vrs more expensive, well the cheap papers you mention are intended for use in body shops to prep bondo slop for paint applications, typically they have huge gaps in the abrasive portion and large ares of blank paper, which is by design to allow for the intended use, if you are looking to precision sub micron polish blade edges then you have quite a different task at hand...

Just curious, have you tried any of your surplus optics paper on the WE? I am a hopeless experimenter and could hardly resist that temptation.. usually optical polishing is done with PDP nano-crystaline DP, a long long way from the silicon carbide in your body shop paper, so here's your chance to try some really upper end particles on your blades. sounds like a chance too good to pass up