Thanks for the advice. Maybe I'll start over at say 400, do more strokes (20 doesn't seem enough) and really try and create a burr first. I also did not strop at all yet (just trying to get used to the diamonds), I'll add that.

I'm pretty new to the WE but iv'e been sharing me experiences/thoughts w/some fellow knife enthusiasts and a friend asked an interesting question I wanted to run by you guys.

He asked if I could sharpen the bezels on one of those "Tactical Flashlights". Just wondering any thoughts on that and the details/possibilities of sharpening aluminum/flashlights.

Well, while I'm suggesting "Salon Shears" to the "Task Specific Section" (per my previous post) I might as well suggest my other interest in sharpening, Gardening Shears/Tools.

I actually brought it up in one of my original posts on this forum and got some interest from Clay but thought i'd make an official suggestion and see if any others are interested in razor sharp pruning shears, tools and even lawnmower blades.

Would love to hear theories on grit progression/angles, etc. that might be suited to these tools/metals.

Oh, awesome!

Again, although I got a loooooong way to go to do this professionally, my end goal is to have a mobile sharpening side business and I have "in's" on nearly 8 Salons. I've seen the way most of the "Sharpening Guys" are sharpening the shears (one or two step process) and am confident the WE can outshine them.

I would love more info on the standard (current) process they're using compared to the WE and details on edge preferences/angles (iv'e heard they need to be "toothy") etc.

Also any info on "shear balancing"

I'm a Super-Noob but one of my end goals is to learn to sharpen Salon Shears/Scissors. Just wondering if any one on here is experienced w/that and maybe adding it to the Task Specific section. Thx.

So here's where i'm at.

After a lot of reading and a couple questions/posts I jumped in with my new WE. Per a previous post on diamond break-in, I used a cheap blade and ran each diamond across it about 50 times "forward"(edge leading) and even did some scrubbing as well w/all the diamonds through 1000. I know that's not really "broken-in" but I figured it would knock a few diamonds off, enough to try my first "real" knife. Yes, perhaps I'm a little anxious, lol.

My first real "test knife" is nothing super high end but I do like carrying it and I "use" it constantly so the edge was pretty jagged/nicked and dull. I figured my worst attempt would be better than it is. So I set up the knife, used the marker trick and decided 17 degrees was getting all the marker off. Went through the diamond progression at about 20 strokes per grit (scrubbing on my first grit, 100) really just trying to get the feel/sound of the stones. To be honest, I'm not sure what I'm looking for as far as a burr, so probably didn't raise one but trying to look and see, hoping it will present itself and I will understand. I take the knife off, try it and obviously (although better than it was) not razor sharp.

I then read that Noobs tend to sharpen at too low of a degree and "miss the edge" so I mount it back in and try 18 degrees thinking it would sharpen closer the the edge (if that makes sense) and that might be the problem. Seems like it is still removing all the marker so seems like a better angle. I run through all the diamonds again about 20 strokes, knife is pretty sharp but I know not WE sharp.

So, here's the question at this point. I finally find a post that details a ballpark on strokes. About 50 up through 600 and up to 100 after. Soooo, obviously I did not do nearly enough strokes. Now at this point, would you start all over w/the 100's and do the ballpark 50 strokes or since it's kind of sharp, start w/a higher grit and follow those corresponding stroke recommendations? Again, I know a burr is important as well but w/out really seeing/feeling one, I'm just not sure if it's there.

I realize (per that post) that there is no set number and i'm trying to "feel" or hear the stones, but for now in practice I'm going to rely more on a set number till I get the feel. Again, the knife is already light years ahead of where it was so no "harm no foul".

Thanks for reading all that and any advice.

Thanks so much, got the idea. I like the thought of buying really cheap dollar store knives to break-in the diamonds. Although the "test knife" I spoke of is not high end, it has some sentimental value. I wouldn't be heartbroken if I ruined it but why not get some super "cheapos" that I really don't care about... great advice.

I feel like iv'e seen and read every basic instructional video/thread I can but never really saw a discussion on "nicks". I'll go over everything again but seems like the nicks will come out w/the first progression/100 grits. And yes, i'm talking about nicks from "use", not from the stones, I should have clarified.

Thx!

So finally got my WE and getting me head around my first test sharpening. I understand the diamonds/stones needing to be broken in but do most people just use dedicated "break-in knives" that don't care about or is there a way to break the stones in another way (rubbing them together or something)?

Also, my test knife has a lot of nicks/jagged edge. Are those usually removed/flattened out in the natural stone progression/raising burr or is there a technique to remove nicks, like running a stone down the length of the blade. Can't seem to find info on that so sorry if it's right in front of my face.

Thanks!

I'm glad others see my point about wanting it polished and complete. It might seem picky to want "little booties" to cover my pivots, but for $700 I guess I expect a lot, lol.

It's simply like the computer analogy, if you believe in the design, you want to start sharpening/learning then you just need to dive in, good bad or ugly. I think we're all "tinkerers" so a few mods here and there wont kill me, I was just worried about big design flaws. Seems to pretty solid though as is Clay himself. I trust if there was a major problem he would take care of it, his "reachability" speaks volumes. I'm sure i'll be in line this week as well.

And +1 on the forum, very helpful and friendly.

I don't see any "problems" w/the system, the major work seems like it's been done, like I said, it just seems like it will be more refined in the future. I think the issue is the price. Not saying it's not worth it in any way, it's just $675 is a pretty penny for most and I think most people would agree it would suck to need another piece two months later (other than stones).

The analogy comparing computer parts is good and you're right. Even at it's present point it will do waaaaay more than I will prob need as a beginner. The funny part is (as i've learned on this forum) nearly everyone on here is OCD (great to find "family") and I think it's just THAT disease that's boggling my brain as I need everything perfect before I pull the trigger, LOL... SOUND FAMILIAR ANYONE?

The fact that Clay or any owner of any company is reachable and supporting a product in a time of 0% customer service gets my money, I'm truly blown away at his dedication and everyone on here. I simply can't wait to start sharpening so I'm now convinced I just need to dive in and order as soon as it's on the site.

When will the "new and improved" 1200/1600's be avail?

Although Clay was kind enough to answer a couple questions I had about the new system in another thread, I don't want to hi-jack and I don't really see an official thread on it so i'll ask here...

I know it's barely out but just wondering people's initial thoughts about the price, new accessories, etc.

I've been holding off on buying a WE, one because it was back ordered, then I found out about the new arms, then I found out about the new system. To me it seems like it still has a few bugs although I know it's been out for years. It seems like a great product/design and my hat is off to Clay but i'm reading about the new arms and possibly elongating them, waiting to see if the problems w/the 1200/1600 grit Ceramics are resolved, etc. and it just seems like in a year or so everything might be a bit different or fine tuned.

Even with the addition of his new microscope it seems the techniques will be more advanced in the near future as well.

Also, when will the Pro Pack II be on the site? It seems to be sold only at "Howe's", just wondered why.

Please enlighten me, maybe I'm too critical or do not understand the system completely as I do not even own one. It's just that if I plunk down $675, I want it refined. I don't want to end up wanting longer arms or needing to do anything to the system like filing screws or anything.

Was going to start a new thread about the Pro II but since we're here, I'll ask now. Is there going to be a price drop or sale or anything? LOL! I don't necessarily mind finally ordering this thing and plunking down $675 (yikes!) but if there's a sale right after I order, things are gonna' get messy, LOL!!!

So before you got 5/3.5 Diamond and Leather Strops. In the new system you get 1/.5 Diamond and leather Strops, is that change because of the addition of the 1.4 & .6 ceramic stones?

So in other words you're getting more in the "Micro Fine Dept"(not sure the terminology). So the benefits might not be apparent to me as I'm new, so why the change/additions?

I've been waiting to see/learn more about the new system before I order. You can see it @ www.howesknifeshop.com Seems like you get the new arms, angle cube and some 1.4 & .6 ceramic stones. I'm a Newb so please correct me if I'm wrong.

Thank you for the quick and personal responses and explanations. Really makes a difference in my ordering a WE. Interesting to know about the stones, makes sense now.

I'm sure this is on here somewhere, but I've been reading non stop for weeks so I'll just ask now... so what is the equivalent of the 1200/1600 ceramics? And again, why the huge jump from 1000 to paste w/the kit?

Speaking of the 1200/1600's, Iv'e been reading so much WE, I'm getting confused as to where Iv'e seen what, lol. Is it my imagination or are the 1200/1600 Ceramics NOT on the WE site? Or are they the 1.4/.6 micron ones. I can't even remember where I saw them... I'm delirious, been reading for hours. Thx.

I'll be ordering the Pro Pack w/the addition of the 1200/1600's to get my feet wet and gain some experience w/techniques.

I have only done basic sharpening with a simple two sided stone (which I now consider barbaric) so I am pretty much brand new. I understand the concepts but realize this is a lifetime art, still can't wait to start though! I will also be ordering some of the classic edge sharpening books, reading every article and watching every video I can possible find, I'm pretty thorough when learning a new art, lol.

I will also be using a microscope and definitely a cube, remember, I have perfection in my veins!

EDIT: Just watched the lapping film vids (thx for the link) but curious why WE didn't include anything in the kit between 1000 and paste?

Here's some pics of a couple different brands, pretty standard shears.

Thanks for the ballpark on the grits.

Any other advice for sharpening these bad dawgs?

That's what I figured. Although brand new to this, I've been reading non-stop and kind of thought a "toothier" (hope I have terminology right) edge might be better for this type of blade and not a super polished edge.

Kind of hoping someone had done it so I could learn the "formula" and see the results. I'll still get some pics of the blade because I'm still hoping I can get a gameplan, especially what grit to start with seeing as they are kinda' rough.

Maybe I'll start with the shears as my first project seeing no one has really done it... first sharpen & first to sharpen garden shears, lol. Killin' two birds.

Just regular Home Depot shears, I have a few different brands, all about 10". I'll get pics up later after work. Thanks for the quick reply!