KenBuzbee wrote:


Yes, shame they don't allow iOS updates though, at least you don't have to suffer Apple maps.

Do you ever get near another web enabled device?

KenBuzbee wrote:


I just tried Safari, Atomic Web and Chrome, all work for me iPad2.
So I figure it is your iPad.

Every now and then you should "double click" the home button (or four fingers touch & slide up), when the apps down the bottom appear, hold one until they wiggle.
Then hit the red (-) button and close them all.
This simply stops/removes them running, they don't leave the iPad.

Also try Settings/Safari/ClearHistory.

Perhaps try a reset. (home & start button for 10 secs)

Or iOS update? (6.0.1)

Good stuff Les, a heavy base (like stone) offers no movement while we work away at our knives.

My first base was a light wooden block, but even with light pressure it would move around.

edit - A mounting template.
www.wickededgeusa.com/files/mounting%20t...ate%20horizontal.pdf

KenBuzbee wrote:


Are you using Safari?

Some browsers show this behaviour.

LesCampbell wrote:


Hi Les, select the WEPS without a base.

wickededgeusa.com/index.php?page=shop.pr...uemart&Itemid=82

Use a chopping board or similar from a local source.
The stone base in the PP1 would account for the high freight cost.

edit - The no base option with a PP1 is offered here. (drop down arrow)
www.oldawan.com/Products.html
He also offers $15 off international orders.

Billabong wrote:


Put the socket head into a few of these, but not really worth the expense, as I don't use the micro-adjust.

May be able to offer some of these to members for cost.
Perhaps a WE voucher after arrival rather than cash changing hands?
An extra two inches on the arms is a great upgrade also, loving this.

edit - All gone, thanks.

xuzme720 wrote:


I had some arms made two inches longer and loving them.
Highly recommend this.

Thinking I might raise the clamp even higher and go "another" inch or so on the arms.
Then I will be using "all" the stone at shallower angles.
Had a custom riser made and may machine the clamp sides as well.

Working on a rotating option for the vice also to remove the need for "packing" with FFG's.

Another idea is to have a base rail that the vise can slide along so I don't have to undo and move a long knife, I simply unlock and slide the clamped vice.
Perhaps two clamps or a front blade support on this rail?

DannyBoy2k wrote:


Hi Danny, what a shame they didn't bother to tell you about the recall.

Put a bit of a matchstick or a lead shot or similar soft material in the micro adjust screw hole.
If you just tighten the screw you have down harder, it will score your ball joint stud thread.

As for the bracket slipping, reverse the angle bar and don't use the angle dimples.
Screw against the flat surface instead.
If you do this and use the angle guage, the micro is not needed.
You can tighten up the ball joint and remove the lock screw altogether.

AnthonyYan wrote:


Great research there, perhaps people can continue to post any experiences about this here?
Hard to make a definite recommendation from info via the net.

Not a normal environment.

JillDufour wrote:


It keeps getting better.



Perhaps the free Photobucket App? (sign up)

AndrewBlaida wrote:


It was pretty much the same for me too.

I had no idea it existed, but somehow knew there would be a better option than my old Lansky out there somewhere.
Every time I used my Lansky I thought, why can't they make this a solid mounted device?
Why only one side at a time, a knife steel alternates sides with each swipe.

It was time for new stones again and I thought, Google is my friend.
In my opinion it was an obvious choice, couldn't believe it was exactly what I was looking for.

The rest is history, now I'm addicted!

I love shiny things too.



I made the right choice.

Hey, that was quite a bunch of parcels, congrats to you and all staff!

I enter at Resources/Forums then Recent Topics Tab and read the green posts.

Basically I use a favourite link to "Recent Topics".

I tend to bypass the front page.

Yes, I see a link posted on the front page news to this a couple of days ago, but can't find it now.

www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10200149...mp;type=1&ref=nf

AndrewBlaida wrote:


Yes, sorry Andrew, that was an additional comment.
You may have an #8-32 screw or similar?

Obviously you have confirmed the clamp has a thread tapped and that it is #10-32.

So the obvious is thread size.
I understand now that you were putting thread tape on it to increase the diameter.

AndrewBlaida wrote:


It should be a 2 inch, #10-32 socket head cap screw.
Replacing the shorter 1 inch original.

Is it not the same thread size as the short one?

I would put loctite on the thread rather than thread tape.
Thread tape is more of a sealant.

Is it the same thread size as the short one?

Will the short one screw directly into the clamp?

wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_c...ctions&Itemid=81

blacksheep25 wrote:


Sometimes a loose thread could mean the pilot hole drill size used wasn't correct (7/32") and too much metal was removed, meaning the thread depth is then too shallow.

There are also small variations between brands and tap types.

A link below to explain.

"1. Determine the appropriate drill bit for the tap size you are using. If you make the hole too narrow, the tap will break under pressure and if you make it too big, the thread will be too loose for any screws that you use after you are done tapping."

www.ehow.com/how_5623551_drill-tap-threads-metal.html

A metal thread insert may be a solution, but then you would need to drill out the lock screw hole.

My 2c.

TedS wrote:


I guess there should be a definite answer to this question as I'm sure many people will ask this into the future.

I was told by a bearing supplier that the version used by WE has a "nylon" race, so don't use anything that can damage, swell, react, with nylon.
Don't overheat the nylon via an oven etc.

Perhaps a product can be identified and approved for lubrication by WE.

Something mineral or oil based might cause problems by attracting grit or breaking down the nylon?
A dry lube graphite spray may be the best option, or teflon/silicone, not sure?

It would be great to get a determination here.
Thanks.

Mikedoh wrote:


Yes, my 1200 side is cracked also.
I received a replacement yesterday, free of any charges.

Thanks WE!