I've been fooling around with sandpaper after my 1000diamond and its been a good learning step, once I'm a little more consistent, it should give me a good idea what grit stones to buy as an intermediary step. Try it...

No joke here, I'm no where near this original.
Now if it had been hijacked by the dwarves in Time Bandits...that would be more my style.

Am I the only one who noticed the site got hacked by a so called Syrian Freedom group?
Very wierd...

Oh definitely.
I think there had to be some sort of mechanical issue with the Spydeco one as well.
I could see this causing confusion on a hollow ground blade if you didn't look closely enough.
And it's not *useless* I still have plenty of use for it in my shop, it just doesn't work on my kitchen knives...

But it makes me wonder why no one has made one correctly for thinner modern blades.

So this might still be a toy for Clay to design and sell if he can produce them at a good price, and make them work on thinner blades. I think my real issue is if the edge bevel is only about 1 or 2 mm, (narrow) this is really hard to use. No idea if there are problems associated with making a wedge cut out in metal like that with little or no hole at the end.

The gauge is about the size of a silver dollar. For some reason I thought it was larger.
I think for this to be useful on thinner blades, the round hole at the end of the slots needs to be smaller out the slots need to go a little further to allow for thin blades.
So it's a fun toy, but I have not found much that it works on....or works well on.

Swell, another gadget to justify to the wife.
This does look interesting, and since I got my PP2, I'm extremely leery of using a fingernail to test the edges, they are far too sharp, and the potential for comedy and bloodspray is far too high....

Who would have thought I'd find something cool....
I ordered one too, I'm a sucker for shiny things, and it's brass....
The old Spydeco one looks like a fantasy Tsuba to me. I wonder if that was deliberate?

I think making a version for the WE would be cool, but manufacture may be very expensive. Also, I don't know how accurate something like this could be, maybe within a degree or two. Maybe if these are ok, the best route is to just by a case and offer them on the WE website.

I'll post thoughts when I get it in a few days as well.

My Mother-In-Law insists on cutting on a glass cuttingboard for everything.
Good lord she can ruin an edge in record time.
I'm not bored, though I may wear the knives to fillet shape....

Hi All,
Not sure if anyone has seen one of these, but they may be a good toy to get you close so you can save a little time with the digital gauge.
www.bladehq.com/item--Richard-Kell-Solid...amp;utm_medium=email
It looks like a neat toy.

Ken,
I have been playing with a Cold Steel Kopis Machete, my first try I took it to 1000grit, beat the generous out of it then took the edge to near mirror.
It was a great way to waste hours and hours.
At this point, I think more than 600 is a waste of time, as the steel is junk and no matter what I do, do it dulls and dings fast.
Just my .02

I have learned to put a piece of masking tape over the screw or edge of the clamp if I think I'm going to hit it. Not pretty, but it works.

Sorry, I missed that part.
Wood...much easier.

Modifiedz did something like this with cardboard, what are yours made of? They look like ceramic, but I'm guessing aluminum.
So what are they?

Bob cut to the point, I love it.
Now to implement. So far this weekend has been a bust for sharpening...maybe tomorrow.

Thanks guys, this makes a little more sense now.
I think now that Bob mentions it; the edge may be off center, which is making the issue worse. I need to look closely at that one.
The thickness variance isn't much of a problem, as this is a Cold Steel machete, so made from a fairly homogenous flat blank, but the edge was obviously hand done, and very uneven.
And as you both mention, it is VERY frustrating, since it's so large. What the H3** was I thinking?
On the positive side, if it pisses me off enough, my belt grinder has not been fed in a while...

So I'll look for the off center edge, and work the higher degree side to see where this ends up.

More updates later...and thanks for the great advice as always. I could really screw up an expensive knife if I didn't learn this. It also explains a few odd things I’ve seen on a few knives over the years.

Hi All,
I'm reprofliling an old machete blade, just as a teaching aid to myself, and having an issue.
It's a fairly wide blade, and when I do the sharpie test, the edges have completely different bevels.
One is 23 degrees, the other is 16. (best guess) So the 16 degree is about a 7 mm bevel, the 23 is about 4mm.
So what should I do, I tried regrinding the edge flat and removed lots of metal, then tried reprofiling, and it looks like the edges are still going to come out uneven.
I vaguely remember seeing something about this in a video, but can't find it, as it was an offhand comment by Clay or Smokeeater...


Any suggestions? Do I grind more on one side than the other, and if so, which side?

Yes, under $5.00 and can you make it weightless and unbreakable out of polished unobtanium too?


I think many of the answers can be found in the case's final use. Many of us would use it as storage, but some to carry around. In the old days...I had a job for a year as a copier tech, we all had 30lb briefcases full of tools, so that's not an unheard of goal, though I don't think they weigh that much, even with granite base. (they might)
What we always ran into was either the handle broke from the weight, or the base split from setting it down too hard.

So I'd say no wheels, and price...no idea.







cbwx34 wrote:

I have to agree, that this is not a perfect solution he's found.
It's my belief he's never seen something like the Wicked Edge, or even a Landsky system, and came up with his own similar solution with the tools he had.

What would be interesting is how he figured this out. The story would be good.

Now as to what I meant...if I can get a picture or two I will, so let me know if this makes sense.

If you zero the cube on the WEPS base, lay the knife blade flat on the base, you can get the grind angle by sticking the angle cube on it. Yes, it’s not perfect, but it can get you really close. So far I'm within .5 degree compared to putting it in the vice and measuring the way we all do.

There has to be a flaw in my logic though, it's too easy.

So I was watching this:

And it made me think...
All those times I really wanted to know a bevel angle, it can be done with shadows and a protractor and right angle gauge.
This guy has a great, if somewhat complex way to do it.
Which made me think...
Heck with that...I put a bubble level on a knife, and my angle gauge on the blade, leveled it, and the gauge shows the factory bevel.

I may be on to something....

I dunno.
The few knives I've bothered to fully disassemble that I use the dry lube on, always have it in every crevice.
My point, it's cheap, and worth a try. Not food safe though. Assuming thats an issue.....