Looks good.
I've had a somewhat similar idea for often repeated settings for particular knives.

Looks like the arm holder is a wee bit longer too.

Hey, what's that other knob near the vise?

wickededge wrote:


Maybe CBW will get to try it soon???

My guess is that it's an adaptation of the drill stop collar trick from the EP....???

What would you think about leaving one end closed off? That would give a bit more support on that end and maybe a bit more protection from contamination.

Just a thought, the retention mechanism for these appear to be the four tabs, but was thinking of a possibly simpler solution... what about a channel with either one or both ends open? Instead of having four tabs, the entire edge would be a long tab. Install/remove by sliding it on from the end. No fancy CAD drawing, Microsoft Paint sketch attached.

Just a thought, the retention mechanism for these appear to be the four tabs, but was thinking of a possibly simpler solution... what about a channel with either one or both ends open? Instead of having four tabs, the entire edge would be a long tab. Install/remove by sliding it on from the end. No fancy CAD drawing, Microsoft Paint sketch attached.

cbwx34 wrote:


Thanks Curtis. That's basically what my friend thought happened. I was kinda surprised it would work that way. I don't think that going to be what he's looking for. He's heading toward the angle obsession we all experience

The only reason (as far as I know) he's looking at the F&S is (according to his research) the F&S is made completely in the USA. He says parts of the regular WE are made in China and that's a deal breaker for him.

Can anyone confirm or deny either point?

Ken

I kind of feel like I am talking to myself here... but I volunteered to test, and that I am doing.
I clamped up an old clever that was laying around here just to see what kind of angles I could get. The edge of the cleaver was 2 3/8 " above the center of the clamp. This cleaver is wider (taller?) at the tip end than at the handle end. If I was going to sharpen it I would have tilted it to try to get the edge as close to parallel to the base as possible. For this test I only wanted to see what the lowest angle achievable would be.

I was able to get to 6.2 degrees on the left side before interference with the lower screw stopped me. Again I used a business card as a gauge to tell when to stop. The right side got all of the way down to 4.6 degrees. This time interference with the top screw was the limit.

There was a couple of problems that would keep these angles from being practical in use. First is the stone wobble after it is in excess of 50% off of the end of the rod (which it was when I took the shot showing the angle cube below), but more important, if I tried to make a complete sweep of the blade, the handle would come completely off of the end of the rod by the tim I got 80% of the way to the tip of the cleaver.

I think that longer rods would be mandatory to take full advantage of the new low angle extension accessory.

BTW, Clay, have you had time to play with the new extension? What have you seen?
Just curious.

Phil

Any update on this? Or was there not enough participating?

I've sent to you original 3d-model a while ago. Could you make anything out of it ?

Wondering if there are any updates re plastic strop covers?

info@wickededgeusa.com

Email sent, Clay.

Thanks!

Ken