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Profile for EatingPie

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  • Rank: Junior Boarder
  • Register Date: 30 Jan 2013
  • Last Visit Date: 14 May 2013
  • Time Zone: GMT -5:00
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  • Posts: 24
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emo
KenBuzbee wrote:
Don't take this wrong, but it sounds like you may be using a tad too much force.

PhilipPasteur wrote:
Agreed. I know that after a long time with the stones and slow progress.... one might be tempted to use more force, perhaps thinking that this would speed things up. Indeedme at one point. Now I find that it is better to use scrubbing...either circular (most aggressive), or up and down, moving the stones fast, but not applying a great deal of pressure...gets faster results. You also don't end up with these huge gouges that need to be removed.

All I gots to say is... S30V man... S-30-Frickin-V!



I would never use that amount of force on the extended clamp. But I still would have the same concerns about strength and stability.

-Pie
Sneak Peak
emo
wickededge wrote:
I've got some prototypes of the new low angle adapter in. This piece allows for reducing the angle by approximately 7 degrees from what is stated on the degree bar. In the photos is pictured a cheap 4" utility blade measuring .75" from spine to edge. I'd love some feedback on this new accessory.

My main concern would be stability. I just reprofiled an S30V and was really pressing hard with the 100 stones (and it still took forever). My immediate thought was of the primary clamp releasing the secondary clamp during a down-stroke, and all kinds of bloody havoc breaking out (literally!). Then there's the lesser issue of the secondary clamp (or knife) shifting during some hard work.

I'm betting these were primary concerns of yours as well, but since you asked.

-Pie
Sneak Peak
emo
BluntCut wrote:
Get cheap 1x30 AluminumOxide sanding belt resin cloth back, 40 thru 2K grit. Want ceramic 40-120 grit, get norton blaze belt. Cut & resin/expoxy, then heavy grinding away. Ok to wet grind too. These strips are very durable and will last a long while (many reprofile).

Remember to clean loose low grit/particles to minimize unwanted scratches.

Awesome!!

I now have a query out to Lee Valley on their Blue Zirconia vs. Aluminum Oxide belts. At under $4.00 per set of belts, this is exactly what I was looking for!

Thanks!!

-Pie
Coarse Sandpaper Rec ...
emo
PhilipPasteur wrote:
How long did it take you to reprofile the blade in question? If you cut that in half, would the time saved be worth $65 ???

Well, let me put it this way. If I took that time and cut it in half, my wife would still kill if she knew how much I spent on the WEPS in the first place!

I've kind of been taken by surprise here. I actually thought there was an abundance of low-grit sandpapers for sharpening! Especially given how well the high grit 3M PSA paper works. Bummer man!

What would be ideal is if I could get the stones and paddles unattached. That way I could use something like double-sided tape and only attach the 50/80s when I need them. I'd then have the paddles available for something like a balsa strop.

-Pie
Coarse Sandpaper Rec ...
emo
I just reprofiled an S30V knife, and it took.... FOREVER! UGH. Obviously the 50 stones would have come in handy here, but I just can't justify the cost for something I will only use a few times (I probably would never even get them broken in).

A cheap solution would be coarse Sandpaper. I already use the 3M micro fine paper at 1u and .3u, and it works great. This is paper designed for sharpening and holds up well for multiple uses (and mirrored the S30V!). So a few questions.

Is there coarse sandpaper designed/recommended for sharpening?

Anyone used coarse sandpaper with the Wicked Edge? I always like to hear experience/advice on new things!

Thanks.

-Pie
Coarse Sandpaper Rec ...
emo
PhilipPasteur wrote:
I figured as much..

The big problem, for me, with ordering from China... is the wait.

The trick is to forget you made the order (easy for me these days!) and then one day this surprise shows up in the mailbox!

-Pie
Jeweler's Loupe
emo
KenBuzbee wrote:
The lights are LEDs, Phil. And they are quite bright. Almost too bright. I find they "wash out" just looking through it, not only under the camera.

A reflection off a polished edge almost blinded me

Ken

I started reading your post about the brightness of the light, and thought "I oughta post about how it blinds me when---" oh crud, he beat me to it!

KenBuzbee wrote:
Here is one similar to mine

www.usgeologicalsupply.com/bausch-lomb-2...ngton-magnifier.html

As i said, mine is pretty old. I think this may be a newer model but it looks about the same.

Yeah, it's 7x more expensive but well woth it, IMO.

Yeah, you're point is exactly the lesson I learned quickly as a photographer. Good optics cost real money, but are almost always worth it! Sometimes the proposition is tough, though. I look at Canon's 500mm f/4 IS lens that costs $10,000 and don't know if I should laugh (because it's so expensive) or cry (because I want one!). It also serves a good lesson in scale of optics. My Canon 70-200mm f/4 IS is just under half the magnification, but costs 1/10th the price!

The description in the link is actually kind of funny. I've never seen a site try so hard to dissuade you from buying their product! But they're definitely getting the point across that optics are expensive.

-Pie
Jeweler's Loupe
emo
dgriff wrote:
For an idea of the capability of the Angle Cube, you could try this older thread. It looks at the accuracy (yep, it is) and precision (yes, it has some) in a semi-rigorous test.
wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_k...63&Itemid=63#363

Oh, wow! Good thread! Maybe I resurrected the wrong one!

I noticed the statement: No measurement exceeded 0.1° deviation from the reference angle. That means that every measurement was at most .1° degree off? I commonly seeing readings of.3° difference (in terms of your second post, maybe I could call this "accurate but out of spec!").

I also noticed another statement: The display did not always reach stability right away. Sometimes as much as 15 seconds were needed, but generally 5 or so seconds was enough. I usually wait a few seconds, but seldom 5, and certainly never 15! I'll give the cube another shot in Patience Mode and see how it works.

Thanks for both the link and for all your work on verification!

-Pie
Does your angle cube ...
emo
Geocyclist wrote:
One thing I found makes a difference is to make sure the stone is placed exactly in the same place every time. I line it up even with the edge of the vice. Second, I try to be consistent with how it sits against the blade. I noticed (even more so with strops which are soft) that a very small rocking motion changes the angle. Depending on the knife you have a perfectly straight edge or some curve. I also make sure the gage is "straight" on the stone.

To check the quality/repeatability of your angle gage use something solid, like the kitchen counter top. Place the gage (same spot), remove, turn it 90 degrees, place it back. If you can get repeatable readings here that's as good as it gets, anything less on the WE is probably user variability in how/where it is placed.

My final 2 cents. The diamonds are pretty consistent. Once you set it you are good to go. When changing to other stones or strops, you can also check again with a marker to make sure all is good.

All great advice! I noticed all this pretty early on. The meter is sensitive to pitch and yaw both, so if it's not set the same every time, it's inconsistent. I do almost exactly the same as you (which, of course, is why your advice is great and -- I might add -- you're brilliant too! ).

The gauge seems to be most accurate when the plane of the face is exactly perpendicular to the base (alternatively, the corners should all be parallel to the base).

This makes it a nightmare to measure the forward bevel of Tanto knives. In that case I put the meter on the stone and set it against the bevel. Then, I turn the gauge until the face is perpendicular, using a stone set vertically on the base as a guide. It's not super accurate, and I just use this to get a ballpark angle the first time I align the knife in the vice.

Sounding more and more like I'm on par with experience. Always good to know!

(This sort of raises the question of "how accurate is accurate?" but that's probably for another day and another thread!)

-Pie
Does your angle cube ...
emo
ThomasAscher wrote:
Let me be sure what is being asked here. First, once the angle cube is laid flat on the base and zero'd I find that it will consistently read zero when re-placed in the same location. Now, when the cube is laid against either arm, then moved and replaced, readings can be expected to vary slightly. This is because the position of the cube on the arm can vary, the position of the arm on the knife edge can vary,and finally the pressure of the cube against the arm can vary. There is a slight give, or bending of the knife itself in response to pressure. In summary, a variance of a few tenths of a degree is nothing to be concerned about.

Thanks for the reply, but I probably wasn't clear enough. I am re-measuring the same bevel just a few seconds later without removing the gauge from the stone.

Here's what I do.

- Place cube on base and zero.
- Place Gauge on Stone*.
- Lay Stone against Bevel**.
- Note Gauge Measurement (say it's 25.2).
- Lift Stone from Bevel
- Lay Stone against Bevel**
- Note Gauge Measurement (now it's 25.4).
- Repeat a few times.
- Remove Gauge from Stone
- Replace Gauge on Base
- Make Post on Wickededge Forum.

It's seldom I get the exact same value twice in succession, but they're all close. Hopefully this is clearer and explains why I'm concerned about accuracy.

Hope that clears it up.

-Pie

* I use another stone to align the gauge vertically so it's the same every time.
** I align the stone so it's in the same place every time. Very light pressure so knife has not shifted.
Does your angle cube ...
emo
EamonMcGowan wrote:
There's a few of YT videos showing some technique doing this.... hair whittling with Wicked Edge. ModifiedZ has one that's almost an hour that's pretty detailed, smokeeater908 has a brief one that's worth watching too. (Both should be near the top of the search).


I watched ModifiedZ video and followed it exactly. Took about four hours to do my knife. It came out seriously sharp! But not hair whittling? I was however able to tree top a couple of arm hairs but even that was pretty sad?
I did notice at the end of ModifiedZ video he writes in he could not whittle hair till he used .5 paste.
Are you guys using the paste or am I just missing the boat?

I guess I'm into old threads today...

I found that holding the paddles for a consistent angle was key. Since there's play between the paddles and the guide rods, you may not be hitting the bevel exactly the same with each pass (I measured a .4 to .5 degree variation). I used ModifiedZ recommendation: grasp the paddles so your index finger rests at the top and pushes toward the clamp, while rotating your wrist slightly to pull the bottom away from the clamp. This way you hit the bevel at the same angle every time. The first time I tried this, I produced a solid hair whittling edge.

-Pie
Need help with techn ...
emo
Rather than start a thread, I thought I'd revive a revival...

My angle cube tells me a different angle almost every time I lay the stone against the bevel. I mean, even if I just lift the stone and re-set a second later, I get a slightly different reading. For example, I will see like 25.2 then 25.4, then 25.2, then 25.3, etc. I know the accuracy is +/ 0.1 degree, but is this how it should really behave? And I am holding the stone at the exact same spot every time, so it's not variance on my part.

-Pie
Does your angle cube ...
emo
KenBuzbee wrote:
My Fastech loupe arrived yesterday. I was so excited to give this guy a go. I like the format. The large lense is easier to use than my old Bausch & Lomb and it's nice to have the light built in:
...
But.... (sorry guys) There is just no comparison on the optics. The B&L is vastly superior. Yeah, it's very small and can be a royal pain in the a.. to use. I have to get the lighting just right (a true joy while the knife is mounted ) and I can only see a small section of the edge at a time but I see MUCH more detail through the B&L

I know this is supposed to be 40X and my B&L is only marked 20X but they don't behave that way. Must have to do with the focal length? (I'm not an optics guy so all I know is what I see)

This new loupe is nice to have as a back up. The price is terrific (I paid a lot more for the B&L a LONG time ago ), and it would be better than nothing, but it isn't going to replace my B&L.

I think this is an issue of conflicting international standards. There's the accurate "40x is 40x" standard that B&L (and other name brands) use, and then there's the Chinese "40x is whatever I say it is" standard. Ah China, the magical land where goods are cheap, and rules are rules nonexistent!

I actually suspected the Chinese loupes were mis-stating their ratings when I first started using them. Sounds like that's the case after all.

-Pie
Jeweler's Loupe
emo
What did you do with it to find the imperfection? Has it helped with burrs?

I am considering one too, but wanted to hear some first-hand experience!

-Pie
Edge Tester
emo
What material is the tester made from? It looks like a pen, and from the instructions, it seems like a pen would work exactly the same.

Here is a PDF link to the instructions.

I hope I don't come across as naysaying this product, it's just that it really does look like a pen-shaped piece of plastic.

-Pie
Edge Tester
emo
I like Fasttech... just stay away from the knives! I bought a "CRKT" knife that's my very first ever official knockoff product purchased in my life. And boy does it suck. Doesn't seem like there'd be money in fake knives, but then I was a sucker so go figure. (Ironically, I found them because they sell real Panasonic batteries -- something everyone else knocks off!)

Their magnets are pretty awesome too!

-Pie
Jeweler's Loupe
emo
I first used the loupe when doing the Sharpie Trick. It gave me a much more accurate view of the wear on the knife after just a few passes with the 1K grit stone. It's especially helpful when you're off by just a bit and it's difficult to see exactly where the stone is hitting the bevel.

Now I also use it to look at scratch patterns. Of course, most of the time I'm baffled by what I'm seeing... but I figure it'll make sense some day!

And now I want to ammend my recommendation. This 40x Loupe sold by Fasttech, direct from China is my new favorite.



It has a much better depth of field than any of my other loupes, and it's only $1.00 more. It uses standard AAA batteries, so you don't have to hunt around the internet (and pay extortion fees) for replacements. DId I mention the depth of field? That's really what sets this one apart, making it significantly easier to see the details.

-Pie
Jeweler's Loupe
emo
The company 3M makes sanding tapes (sandpaper with adhesive backing) that are rated in Microns. That way you have a much better measure of comparison.

I just purchased some 1 and .3 micron and can get almost to a mirror... I'm still new to this so I expect my results to improve! I don't have the link to the site I bought from, but I think a search for "3M" here should turn up the thread I used for a reference.

-Pie
Question about sandp ...
emo
I cannot quite see the mechanism in those 10x loupes, but here's the picture of the 40x I referenced above.



Below the magnifying glass, you can see the circular battery cap with the words "LOOSE" and "TIGHT" on it. Those two little holes (conveniently, the arrows point at them!) are how you remove the cap. I inserted the tips of a very sharp pair of needlenose pliers into the holes and unscrewed the cap. Weird. It may be that your loupes use a similarly obscure cap setup.

The only real drawback is that the stupid batteries cost more than the loupe itself!

-Pie
Jeweler's Loupe
emo
I bought this 40x loupe on amazon. It has a light and is 25mm making wider than the typical 21mm, something I really like about it!

Ships from China so it takes a few weeks, but worth it.

-Pie
Jeweler's Loupe
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