I was able to get a positive clamp on my new Tuff using some foam tape in a fairly wide strip. Bottom holes and B depth.

The tape seems to fill in the fuller and give a tight clamp. Similar to but even more firm than using this technique on full flat ground Spydies.

The blade is very stout at the tip, so I did end up with a pretty wide bevel up there. I guess you could try moving the blade down a bit towards the tip. The factory grind had an even bevel all the way so it must have been very obtuse at the tip because there really isn't any distal taper. I had to remove a fair amount to get it sharpened at 20 degrees all the way.

I might have been better off at A.5, but the point drops so the clamping was going to get more challenging the closer to the tip I got. A.75 would have been nice, but I would have to mark my depth gauge for that.

Wow... that's a nice knife. Hope you don't mind me adding a pic of what it looks like...



Thanks for the great sharpening review! Very beneficial.

Edit: Added specs:
length overall 8.85" (225 mm)
blade length 3.70" (94 mm)
blade steel CPM 3V
length closed 5.15" (131 mm)
cutting edge 3.00" (76 mm)
weight 6.3 oz (179 g)
blade thickness 0157" (4.0 mm)
handle material G10 / Titanium

It's an interesting knife design for sure. This thing is a beast and it was definitely made for slashing and chopping.

The CPM 3V steel is the star of the show. It takes an almost sticky sharp edge and is extremely tough and impact resistant. I'm sure there will be a trade off in edge retention, but it's very resistant to chipping and rolling.

After what I have done with this folder so far... I think I would like a larger fixed blade in 3V.

I chose to put a 40 degree inclusive primary bevel and a 46 degree microbevel on it just because I plan on being rough with this knife.

I usually go 30 and 40 degrees or somewhere in between with my slicing knives.

If you haven't already, don't forget to add your results to the database.

www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=c...atalog&Itemid=94