I just tried out different methods for creating a convex edge more extensively and made more and better pictures of it. You can read all about it and see the pictures on my new blog.

My conclusion: all methods work, but the method of setting edges from most acute one to least acute one removes most material and takes the longest. I prefer the method Clay has shown in some videos: a full edge at the lowest angle (e.g, 16 degrees), followed by a full edge at the highest angle bevel (e.g., 22 degrees), followed by the intermediate bevels (e.g., 20 and 18 degrees), followed by stropping.

I just put a nice convex shoulder on my Chambriard Le Trappeur gentleman's knife and added a 16.5 degree micro bevel...the paper slices like it is being cut by a laser. The paper appears to literally disappear in front of the approaching edge with almost nil pressure...the molecules seem to jump out of the way on their own. LOL! I shaved some hair off my face with no pull whatsoever...scary doing that...hat off to Tom who shaved his whole face with a cleaver.
Now that is my kind of edge! I used all the diamond paddles plus the ceramic hones and then the leather strops with diamond pastes.
Next I will try this doing it all with the Naniwa Chosera water stones. I can't picture anything much sharper than this but we shall see.

Leo

leomitch wrote:


Awesome Leo, I'd love to see a picture if you get around to it.

leomitch wrote:


Love that! I still plan on shaving my face with my Fallkniven A1 .

Sorry Clay,but I don't have a microscope. I suppose I could try a video showing the knife cutting paper in sweeping curves and maybe shaving some hair, but the edge would not show well. Perhaps I will try to chronicle the next edge with the Chosera stones with a video or series of stills. I shall try that.
Thanks to you for confirming that a convex edge with a small micro bevel is a good way to go.

Leo