cbwx34 wrote:


Curtis.. Have you used this method? Razoredgeknives.. Sounds like you have and do use it.

What do you use as a reference for the angle cube to set the arm angles properly?

If you change the tilt during a session and have to reset the angles for a different set of stones.. doesn't that screw things up.. at least when trying to get to a tenth of a degree (or limit of the cube's accuracy)?
I have found that changing the cube's orientation in any axis tends to give me inaccuracies. Clay even talked about using a square to keep the cube (perpindicular to the base) to avoid this kind of thing.
Just curious.

Phil

I mounted a Field and Sport Model to one, so didn't use the angle cube.

I just have used the angle bar to reference to zero and then when the paddles register 17 degrees it doesn't matter where the WE is rotated because all the reference points are moving in conjunction with each other.

It does matter because the angle cube does not read the same in all orientations. I have not seen this to be a large discsrepancy, but certainly a few tenths and up to 3 or four tenths of a degree... this just from not lining up the cube vertically the same form measurement to measurement. Try affixing the cube to one of the diamond paddles, then twist it about its horizontal axis so it is not lined up with the sides of the vise. What ahppens to the indicated angle? On my particualr angle cube, it changes.

In theory it should make no difference, you are measuring angles relative to the base bar, but the angle cube does not obey theory 100%.

Of course the differences are not huge and maybe it does not matter to you, but I am hoping someone has a solution that will work with the inadequacies of the cube... because,

I have one of these Panavise bases. I have not used it because I have a method that works well for me...and because of the angle measuring concern. I can see how it could come in handy at some point though. If I could get another WEPS vise without anything else and attach it to the Panavise for those occasions, that would be cool.
I still am concerned about the angle measurement with the cube though.

Phil

PhilipPasteur wrote:


I have found that it doesn't make any noticeable difference. I actually tested it by varying the angle by a few degrees (forward to back), re-zeroing the angle cube, and checking my angle. It may have changed .05 but that's it.

I don't use the angle cube in between each diamond stone, just in between the diamond stones and my choseras, or in between my choseras and my strops.

I just eye ball the position of the vise (front to back) and then set the side to side angle with my angle cube. As seen in the photo below. I really don't believe it's any concern whatsoever.

Guess I'll be trying it out...

Curtis,

What are the screws on your primary angle adjust? Do they allow the use of a hex key. Mine look the same size, but solid black, no silver part in the middle.

Yea, I think they were some Clay was trying out, and I somehow got ahold of them. You can use the hex key in them... I've never needed to though.

Oh great Curtis, Once you start you're never gonna wanna go back to the "plain old base" that came with your WE! lol. I love tilting mine (after I have set my angle) towards me about 20* or so, lets me see the edge a WHOLE lot better.

Little update...

Still using it, so I guess I still like it. About the only thing I added, I taped a ruler on the back to hold the arms/stones up... makes it easier to change, and if I set the stones down, they don't slide off. (Doesn't have to be a ruler, just what I had handy).



I haven't had issues with the Angle Gauge, but haven't used it during sharpening, just at the beginning to set the angle. Seems to match well, with what I've recorded previously.

Don't misinterpret this to mean it's better than a base, just an alternative depending on your needs, or if you're like me, something else to play with.

PhilipPasteur wrote:


It's a pretty simple mod to make... if you already have the vise, it's only a few dollars in screws and aluminum. Switching back would take about 2 minutes (and you could probably sell the parts.)