Wicked Edge Wiki - User contributions [en]

Wicked Edge Forum Links

2013-04-22T16:11:48Z

Cbwx34: /* Forum How To: */

__TOC__

== Wicked Edge Forum Links ==

Mining the best of the best. Found a forum post worth noting? Write a short description, and post it here.
(Try and link to the specific post, if possible). For example:

----
A tip for mounting a Spyderco knife with a sharply angled spine, so that the edge is level in the clamp:

http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=6&id=153&Itemid=63#154
----

== Forum How To: ==
Links to threads on how to perform various actions in the Wicked Edge Forum...

[http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=3&id=10682&Itemid=63 How to: Quote Another Post]

Wicked Edge Forum Links

2013-04-22T16:11:05Z

Cbwx34:

Wicked Edge Forum Links

2013-04-22T16:08:45Z

Cbwx34:

== Wicked Edge Forum Links ==

Mining the best of the best. Found a forum post worth noting? Write a short description, and post it here.
(Try and link to the specific post, if possible). For example:

----
A tip for mounting a Spyderco knife with a sharply angled spine, so that the edge is level in the clamp:

http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=6&id=153&Itemid=63#154
----

== Forum How To: ==
Links to threads on how to perform various actions in the Wicked Edge Forum...

[http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=3&id=10682&Itemid=63 How to quote another post]

Main Page

2013-04-05T12:14:21Z

Cbwx34: /* Wicked Edge User Information */

= Index to the Wicked Edge Wiki =

== Wicked Edge User Information ==

[[Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge]]

[[Wicked Edge New User Info]]

[[Advanced Sharpening Techniques]]

[[Sharpening Different Blade Styles]]

[[Frequently Asked Forum Questions]]

== Abrasives ==

[[Abrasives Type and Use]]

[[Use of Waterstones by Philip Pasteur]]

[[Stones and Strops]]

== Sharpening ==

[[Glossary of Sharpening Terms]]

[[Testing for Sharpness]]

[[Theories of Sharpening]]

[[Dihedral Angles in Knife Sharpening by Anthony Yan]]

== Steel ==

[[Types of Steel]]

== Wicked Edge Sharpeners ==

[[Wicked Edge Field and Sport Model]]

== Wicked Edge References ==

[[Wicked Edge Forum Links]]

[[Wicked Edge Videos]]

[[Wicked Edge Library]]

----
My goal for the Wiki is simple - to create a place where our community can build a resource that is a rich source of information on everything knife, and giving some of our best conversations a home there is a really good fit. I eventually want to have a big knife and sharpening glossary, a steel database and as many articles geared toward sharpening as we can manage.

[http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=3&id=6135&limit=10&limitstart=20&Itemid=63#6220 Quote from Clay, Owner of the Wicked Edge]

Advanced Sharpening Techniques

2013-04-02T19:51:23Z

Cbwx34: /* Setting the "Teeth" */

== Setting the "Teeth" ==

When you sharpen a knife, the abrasives leave little grooves or striations in the metal. These create "teeth" at the edge. You can change the angle of these teeth to facilitate how the knife cuts. The Wicked Edge does a great job of doing this.

Most knives from the factory come with the striations 90 degrees to the edge, as they are often sharpened on a belt sander or other powered sharpener. You can see this by looking at the edge under magnification, or even under a bright light angled across the edge.

By changing how you move the stone on the Wicked Edge, you can alter this. For example, since many knives are often used in a slicing motion, typically by starting the cut near the heel and pulling toward the tip, having the teeth point towards the heel will facilitate the cut.

You can set the teeth by altering the stroke. You don't need to do this for every stone, the teeth can be set with the finest stone (and then strops if used). For example:

* Use an edge trailing stroke, starting at the tip and ending at the heel. This will point the teeth toward the heel. This will make the typical slice cut easier.
* Use an edge trailing stroke, starting at the heel toward the tip. This will point the teeth toward the tip, useful if a lot of your cuts start by pushing into the material being cut.
* Use an edge trailing stroke in small segments straight up, working down the blade in sections. This will set the teeth straight up, useful if most of your cuts are push cuts.

Even though you set the teeth to facilitate cutting in one direction, doesn't mean it won't cut well in all directions. Also, it doesn't have to be a coarse finish, even a very fine finish level will benefit from this.

Give it a try!

== Raising a Burr ==

== Correcting Uneven Bevels ==

== Level of Finish ==

Advanced Sharpening Techniques

2013-04-01T13:58:18Z

Cbwx34: /* Setting the "Teeth" */

== Setting the "Teeth" ==

When you sharpen a knife, the abrasives leave little grooves or striations in the metal. These create "teeth" at the edge. You can change the angle of these teeth to facilitate how the knife cuts. The Wicked Edge does a great job of doing this.

Most knives from the factory come with the striations 90 degrees to the edge, as they are often sharpened on a belt sander or other powered sharpener. You can see this by looking at the edge under magnification, or even under a bright light angled across the edge.

By changing how you move the stone on the Wicked Edge, you can alter this. For example, since many knives are often used in a slicing motion, typically by starting the cut near the heel and pulling toward the tip, by having the teeth point towards the heel will facilitate the cut.

You can set the teeth by altering the stroke. You don't need to do this for every stone, the teeth can be set with the finest stone (and then strops if used). For example:

* Use an edge trailing stroke, starting at the tip and ending at the heel. This will point the teeth toward the heel. This will make the typical slice cut easier.
* Use an edge trailing stroke, starting at the heel toward the tip. This will point the teeth toward the tip, useful if a lot of your cuts start by pushing into the material being cut.
* Use an edge trailing stroke in small segments straight up, working down the blade in sections. This will set the teeth straight up, useful if most of your cuts are push cuts.

Even though you set the teeth to facilitate cutting in one direction, doesn't mean it won't cut well in all directions. Also, it doesn't have to be a coarse finish, even a very fine finish level will benefit from this.

Give it a try!

== Raising a Burr ==

== Correcting Uneven Bevels ==

== Level of Finish ==

Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge

2013-04-01T12:49:39Z

Cbwx34: /* Additional Setup Tips */

This page is a guide for the new user in setting up and using the Wicked Edge. It provides more detail as well as links to other pages of interest.

== '''Setup''' ==

Make sure you have all the parts, and the Wicked Edge is correctly assembled.

A pdf page with a packing list, and setup instructions can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/files/Pro-Pack%20II%20Assembly%20-%20Web.pdf Pro Pack II Assembly]. (It also contains a part list for the Pro Pack I and II).

For your first couple of sharpenings, consider selecting a practice knife that is fairly easy to sharpen, and not a high end or custom knife. A 3-4 inch kitchen or pocket knife, or small hunting knife is a good choice. It should also be a knife you can practice on, without worry of messing up. This gives you the opportunity to become familiar with the system, as well as give your diamond stones the opportunity to break in.

=== Additional Setup Tips ===

While not necessary, consider lightly sanding the bottom screw of the clamp. This screw pushes against the opposite clamp, and if it has any rough edges, can dig into the clamp. (Note: this does not cause any sharpening issues... more of a cosmetic issue).

Also consider adding a small drop of lubricating oil to the end of the bottom screw. Makes tightening much easier. (Be careful not to overtighten!!)

For a location, pick an area free from distractions, and with good lighting. The sharpener should be comfortable to work, the base usually a little above waist level.

== '''Clamping the Knife''' ==

Most knives clamp without issue. Set the depth using either the upper or lower holes on the clamp. The angles are calibrated for a knife that extends 5/8" (15.875mm) above the clamp. Insert the depth key with the horizontal alignment guide ruler at the appropriate height. Consider taping the spine of the knife, especially when learning, so that, if the knife slips in the clamp, it won't scratch the sides.

Set the width of the clamp, so it's the same as, or just slightly wider than the knife. Tighten the top screw first, then the bottom screw, to lock the blade in.

You also need to set the knife so that the amount of metal removed as you approach the tip is consistent with the rest of the bevel. To do this, the knife is adjusted horizontally, (changing the distance from the clamp to the tip). This can be done by marking the edge with a Sharpie (see "Setting the Angle" section), and adjusting the knife so the marker is removed along the entire bevel, or center of the bevel, as you approach the tip. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=91:finding-the-sweet-spot-positioning-your-knife-from-front-to-back&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=81 Positioning your Knife Front to Back].

Once you have the knife properly positioned, you'll want to record your settings for future reference. This is one of the key concepts of the Wicked Edge... the ability to quickly replicate your previous work, so you can quickly touch up a knife without having to grind in a new edge every time.

There is a [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_joodb&view=catalog&Itemid=94 Knife Database] that other users contribute to, with the settings they've used on a particular knife. A good reference to check to see what others are doing. (And when you're done, add your results to it.)

One knife that some users have trouble with, is the "Full Flat Grind" (FFG), which is a knife that tapers from spine to tip. If you pay attention, you can clamp the blade by insuring that it stays vertical as you tighten the screws. Additionally, you can use a small piece of foam tape on the clamps, or use a thin piece of leather or moleskin wrapped around the spine where it is clamped. Additional tips can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78:can-the-wicked-edge-sharpen-fully-flat-ground-blades&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 Sharpening a Fully Flat Ground Blade].

== '''Setting the Angle''' ==

Determining the angle to sharpen at, is one of the most asked questions. When starting, there are two methods. One method, is to follow the suggestions in the User's Guide. The 2nd method, and perhaps the one recommended for new users, is to match the angle that is currently on the knife. This is done by marking the edge with a Sharpie, or other marker, making a light pass with a fine stone and adjusting the angle until the stone removes the marker from the majority of the bevel. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=69:how-to-find-your-angle&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=89 How to Find your Angle]. By matching the angle that is on the knife, you can concentrate on the sharpening process, and achieve a sharp knife without spending a lot of time (and maybe becoming a little frustrated).

=== The Calibration Points of the Wicked Edge ===

The Wicked Edge angles, like all angle controlled sharpeners, are based on certain "calibration points". Being aware of these points will help in determining how to setup your knife and angles.

* Height: The angles are based on a knife that extends 5/8 inch above the top of the clamp. For a knife that is higher, the angle sharpened will be smaller than indicated.
* Width: The angles are based on a knife that is no wider than .125 inches. For wider knives, adjust the '''right angle only''' out 1 degree for every .125 in. in thickness. (This is an approximation, for example a knife that is slightly wider, say .130 in. probably doesn't need this adjustment)
* Length: There is no calibration for length, since the angle does not change along the straight portion of an edge. So always set the knife based on the contact of the stone to the belly/tip area.

If you have a digital angle gauge, using this in combination with the above guide, will help to quickly and accurately set your angles. Even with out the angle gauge, using this guide will help "dial in" the correct angle.

Always record your settings, so you can quickly and easily repeat the previous sharpening!

=== Using the Digital Angle Gauge ===

AN angle cube allows one to set the angle EXACTLY.

Here's how:

1. Set your knife in the sharpener and decide the angle (ie. 18 per side.)

2. Put the angle cube on the base of the sharpener and zero it.

3. Put the stone on the sharpening rod and set the pre-marked scale to 18 degrees.

4. Lay the stone against the knife as if you were going to start sharpening

5. Put the Angle Cube on the side of the sharpening stone that is not against the knife .....

6. READ THE ANGLE. It probably will NOT be 18 (due to inherent differences in the height of each knife being sharpened.)

7. Adjust the angle until it reads 18 on the Angle Cube

You now have a true 18 degrees.

(Posted by R.JeffreyCoates in the forum.)

== '''Sharpening''' ==

Sharpening is pretty straightforward. Begin on one side at the heel (back) of the knife, with the stone as low as it will go. Using light pressure, move the stone down the edge, at the same time going up the rod. Stop as you reach the tip. Be careful not to rotate the stone around the tip or you can grind it off. Go slow... speed comes with experience. It doesn't take long to learn the technique and pick up the pace, it will take longer to "unlearn" a wrong technique.

After learning the above, the second technique is for setting a bevel on a very dull knife, lowering the angle, or fixing some minor damage. This technique is "scrubbing" the stone, (usually a coarse stone), up and down as you move the stone down the edge. Again, start slow, use light pressure, and pay attention... you can remove metal faster than you realize.

=== Things to watch for during sharpening ===

Some additional points to watch for during sharpening include:

- Look at what's happening on the knife. Make sure metal is being removed where you want, and not being removed where you don't.

- Don't set too low of an angle. Rare, but make sure the stones aren't contacting the clamp or screws.

- Wipe the blade between stones, and especially between strops, so that you don't cross contaminate them.

== '''My knife isn't as sharp as I thought...''' ==

Some users, after sharpening a couple of knives, don't get the results they expect, especially after watching a few videos where other users are getting shaving or "hair whittling" edges. There are a few reasons for this.

- Break-in of the diamond stones. The diamond stones, when new, are a bit more aggressive than their actual rating. As they're used, they settle in, and perform closer to their rating.

- Not sharpening all the way to the edge, is another common mistake. There is a misconception in sharpening, that if X number of strokes are applied, the knife will be sharp. One way to tell if you've reached the edge is to create a burr. A burr is a small piece of metal that folds over when the edge is reached. You can see an example here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70:drawing-a-burr-with-the-wicked-edge-knife-sharpener&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=90 Creating a burr]. The easiest way to know you've reached the edge, ties into marking the edge with a Sharpie marker... when you've removed the marker all the way to the edge, chances are you've reached it.

- Too much pressure. Another technique to pay attention to, is how much pressure is applied. Lighter is better, and its often lighter than you think. It doesn't take much for the diamond stones, ceramics or strops to do their work.

Here's an excellent quote from Geocyclist:

''DO NOT be disappointed with your first or 5th knife. A.) It takes 5 - 10 or so knives to break in the diamond stones. The first knife will probably not blow your mind. B.) Your technique will improve. It took me to about my 7th knife to finally say I had a Wicked sharp edge, with mirror polish, even bevels, etc.. My first two knives I was worried I had wasted my money. By knife #5 I wasn't worried any more about if I had wasted my money on the WE. Your first two knives or so should be ones you don't care much about or worry about messing up.'' [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=2&id=8628&Itemid=63#8637 (Reference)]

- Check this page, [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=118:i-just-got-my-wicked-edge-and-sharpened-my-first-knife-its-not-as-sharp-as-i-thought-it-would-be-whats-going-wrong&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 My knife isn't as sharp as I thought...] for more information.

== '''Additional Resources''' ==

A [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=71:basic-knife-sharpening-instructions&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=88 Basic Instructions] page for using the Wicked Edge

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=31&Itemid=75 Wicked Edge FAQ]

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=listcat&Itemid=64 Wicked Edge Forum]. Here you'll find many members, both new and experienced, ready to help with any questions you might have. Join today!

Glossary of Sharpening Terms

2013-03-31T22:10:47Z

Cbwx34: /* Edge Leading vs. Edge Trailing */

== Terms Used in Sharpening ==

Burr: In engineering, a burr refers to the raised edge on a metal part. It may be present in the form of a fine wire on the edge of a freshly sharpened tool or as a raised portion on a surface, after being struck a blow from an equally hard, or heavy object.' A burr, also called a wire edge, is created as a result of sharpening metal. The burr forms on the edge of the knife where the planes of the bevels (or, in the case of one-sided knives or chisels, the plane of one face and the bevel) intersect. The diagram below shows the burr projecting from the edge of the knife:

[[image:Knife_edge_with_burr.gif]]

== Parts of a Knife ==

Tip

Heel

Choil

Ricasso

== Types of Edges ==

Straight or Flat Grind:

[[Image:FlatGrind.gif]]

Convex Grind:

[[image:ConvexGrind.png]]

Chisel Grind:

[[image:ChiselGrind.gif]]

Double Bevel:

[[image:DoubleBevel.png]]

== Edge Leading vs. Edge Trailing ==

* Edge Leading is generally when sharpening with the edge going directly into the abrasive medium as you make a stroke. On the WEPS, an edge leading stroke would be with the paddles starting in a raised position and then pulling downward toward the base, or "into" the edge.

* Edge Trailing is the opposite, or when the edge is behind the spine on the abrasive medium. On the WEPS, edge trailing is done when starting the stroke with the paddles closer to the base, and pulling in an upward direction or "away from the edge".

* As for when to use each, you can do edge trailing or leading when using any abrasive medium that is NOT a strop (diamonds, ceramics, Shaptons, Choseras), and you must use edge trailing for anything that is a strop (Balsa, leather, nanocloth).

From Forum member jendeindustries [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=9&id=10175&Itemid=63#10178 Link]

Glossary of Sharpening Terms

2013-03-31T22:08:28Z

Cbwx34:

== Terms Used in Sharpening ==

Burr: In engineering, a burr refers to the raised edge on a metal part. It may be present in the form of a fine wire on the edge of a freshly sharpened tool or as a raised portion on a surface, after being struck a blow from an equally hard, or heavy object.' A burr, also called a wire edge, is created as a result of sharpening metal. The burr forms on the edge of the knife where the planes of the bevels (or, in the case of one-sided knives or chisels, the plane of one face and the bevel) intersect. The diagram below shows the burr projecting from the edge of the knife:

[[image:Knife_edge_with_burr.gif]]

== Parts of a Knife ==

Tip

Heel

Choil

Ricasso

== Types of Edges ==

Straight or Flat Grind:

[[Image:FlatGrind.gif]]

Convex Grind:

[[image:ConvexGrind.png]]

Chisel Grind:

[[image:ChiselGrind.gif]]

Double Bevel:

[[image:DoubleBevel.png]]

== Edge Leading vs. Edge Trailing ==

* Edge Leading is generally when sharpening with the edge going directly into the abrasive medium as you make a stroke. On the WEPS, an edge leading stroke would be with the paddles starting in a raised position and then pulling downward toward the base, or "into" the edge.

* Edge Trailing is the opposite, or when the edge is behind the spine on the abrasive medium. On the WEPS, edge trailing is done when starting the stroke with the paddles closer to the base, and pulling in an upward direction or "away from the edge".

* As for when to use each, you can do edge trailing or leading when using any abrasive medium that is NOT a strop (diamonds, ceramics, Shaptons, Choseras), and you must use edge trailing for anything that is a strop (Balsa, leather, nanocloth).

From Tom (jendeindustries) [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=9&id=10175&Itemid=63#10178 Link]

Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge

2013-03-17T14:32:11Z

Cbwx34:

This page is a guide for the new user in setting up and using the Wicked Edge. It provides more detail as well as links to other pages of interest.

== '''Setup''' ==

Make sure you have all the parts, and the Wicked Edge is correctly assembled.

A pdf page with a packing list, and setup instructions can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/files/Pro-Pack%20II%20Assembly%20-%20Web.pdf Pro Pack II Assembly]. (It also contains a part list for the Pro Pack I and II).

For your first couple of sharpenings, consider selecting a practice knife that is fairly easy to sharpen, and not a high end or custom knife. A 3-4 inch kitchen or pocket knife, or small hunting knife is a good choice. It should also be a knife you can practice on, without worry of messing up. This gives you the opportunity to become familiar with the system, as well as give your diamond stones the opportunity to break in.

=== Additional Setup Tips ===

While not necessary, consider lightly sanding the bottom screw of the clamp. This screw pushes against the opposite clamp, and if it has any rough edges, can dig into the clamp. (Note: this does not cause any sharpening issues... more of a cosmetic issue).

For a location, pick an area free from distractions, and with good lighting. The sharpener should be comfortable to work, the base usually a little above waist level.

== '''Clamping the Knife''' ==

Most knives clamp without issue. Set the depth using either the upper or lower holes on the clamp. The angles are calibrated for a knife that extends 5/8" (15.875mm) above the clamp. Insert the depth key with the horizontal alignment guide ruler at the appropriate height. Consider taping the spine of the knife, especially when learning, so that, if the knife slips in the clamp, it won't scratch the sides.

Set the width of the clamp, so it's the same as, or just slightly wider than the knife. Tighten the top screw first, then the bottom screw, to lock the blade in.

You also need to set the knife so that the amount of metal removed as you approach the tip is consistent with the rest of the bevel. To do this, the knife is adjusted horizontally, (changing the distance from the clamp to the tip). This can be done by marking the edge with a Sharpie (see "Setting the Angle" section), and adjusting the knife so the marker is removed along the entire bevel, or center of the bevel, as you approach the tip. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=91:finding-the-sweet-spot-positioning-your-knife-from-front-to-back&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=81 Positioning your Knife Front to Back].

Once you have the knife properly positioned, you'll want to record your settings for future reference. This is one of the key concepts of the Wicked Edge... the ability to quickly replicate your previous work, so you can quickly touch up a knife without having to grind in a new edge every time.

There is a [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_joodb&view=catalog&Itemid=94 Knife Database] that other users contribute to, with the settings they've used on a particular knife. A good reference to check to see what others are doing. (And when you're done, add your results to it.)

One knife that some users have trouble with, is the "Full Flat Grind" (FFG), which is a knife that tapers from spine to tip. If you pay attention, you can clamp the blade by insuring that it stays vertical as you tighten the screws. Additionally, you can use a small piece of foam tape on the clamps, or use a thin piece of leather or moleskin wrapped around the spine where it is clamped. Additional tips can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78:can-the-wicked-edge-sharpen-fully-flat-ground-blades&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 Sharpening a Fully Flat Ground Blade].

== '''Setting the Angle''' ==

Determining the angle to sharpen at, is one of the most asked questions. When starting, there are two methods. One method, is to follow the suggestions in the User's Guide. The 2nd method, and perhaps the one recommended for new users, is to match the angle that is currently on the knife. This is done by marking the edge with a Sharpie, or other marker, making a light pass with a fine stone and adjusting the angle until the stone removes the marker from the majority of the bevel. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=69:how-to-find-your-angle&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=89 How to Find your Angle]. By matching the angle that is on the knife, you can concentrate on the sharpening process, and achieve a sharp knife without spending a lot of time (and maybe becoming a little frustrated).

=== The Calibration Points of the Wicked Edge ===

The Wicked Edge angles, like all angle controlled sharpeners, are based on certain "calibration points". Being aware of these points will help in determining how to setup your knife and angles.

* Height: The angles are based on a knife that extends 5/8 inch above the top of the clamp. For a knife that is higher, the angle sharpened will be smaller than indicated.
* Width: The angles are based on a knife that is no wider than .125 inches. For wider knives, adjust the '''right angle only''' out 1 degree for every .125 in. in thickness. (This is an approximation, for example a knife that is slightly wider, say .130 in. probably doesn't need this adjustment)
* Length: There is no calibration for length, since the angle does not change along the straight portion of an edge. So always set the knife based on the contact of the stone to the belly/tip area.

If you have a digital angle gauge, using this in combination with the above guide, will help to quickly and accurately set your angles. Even with out the angle gauge, using this guide will help "dial in" the correct angle.

Always record your settings, so you can quickly and easily repeat the previous sharpening!

=== Using the Digital Angle Gauge ===

AN angle cube allows one to set the angle EXACTLY.

Here's how:

1. Set your knife in the sharpener and decide the angle (ie. 18 per side.)

2. Put the angle cube on the base of the sharpener and zero it.

3. Put the stone on the sharpening rod and set the pre-marked scale to 18 degrees.

4. Lay the stone against the knife as if you were going to start sharpening

5. Put the Angle Cube on the side of the sharpening stone that is not against the knife .....

6. READ THE ANGLE. It probably will NOT be 18 (due to inherent differences in the height of each knife being sharpened.)

7. Adjust the angle until it reads 18 on the Angle Cube

You now have a true 18 degrees.

(Posted by R.JeffreyCoates in the forum.)

== '''Sharpening''' ==

Sharpening is pretty straightforward. Begin on one side at the heel (back) of the knife, with the stone as low as it will go. Using light pressure, move the stone down the edge, at the same time going up the rod. Stop as you reach the tip. Be careful not to rotate the stone around the tip or you can grind it off. Go slow... speed comes with experience. It doesn't take long to learn the technique and pick up the pace, it will take longer to "unlearn" a wrong technique.

After learning the above, the second technique is for setting a bevel on a very dull knife, lowering the angle, or fixing some minor damage. This technique is "scrubbing" the stone, (usually a coarse stone), up and down as you move the stone down the edge. Again, start slow, use light pressure, and pay attention... you can remove metal faster than you realize.

=== Things to watch for during sharpening ===

Some additional points to watch for during sharpening include:

- Look at what's happening on the knife. Make sure metal is being removed where you want, and not being removed where you don't.

- Don't set too low of an angle. Rare, but make sure the stones aren't contacting the clamp or screws.

- Wipe the blade between stones, and especially between strops, so that you don't cross contaminate them.

== '''My knife isn't as sharp as I thought...''' ==

Some users, after sharpening a couple of knives, don't get the results they expect, especially after watching a few videos where other users are getting shaving or "hair whittling" edges. There are a few reasons for this.

- Break-in of the diamond stones. The diamond stones, when new, are a bit more aggressive than their actual rating. As they're used, they settle in, and perform closer to their rating.

- Not sharpening all the way to the edge, is another common mistake. There is a misconception in sharpening, that if X number of strokes are applied, the knife will be sharp. One way to tell if you've reached the edge is to create a burr. A burr is a small piece of metal that folds over when the edge is reached. You can see an example here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70:drawing-a-burr-with-the-wicked-edge-knife-sharpener&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=90 Creating a burr]. The easiest way to know you've reached the edge, ties into marking the edge with a Sharpie marker... when you've removed the marker all the way to the edge, chances are you've reached it.

- Too much pressure. Another technique to pay attention to, is how much pressure is applied. Lighter is better, and its often lighter than you think. It doesn't take much for the diamond stones, ceramics or strops to do their work.

Here's an excellent quote from Geocyclist:

''DO NOT be disappointed with your first or 5th knife. A.) It takes 5 - 10 or so knives to break in the diamond stones. The first knife will probably not blow your mind. B.) Your technique will improve. It took me to about my 7th knife to finally say I had a Wicked sharp edge, with mirror polish, even bevels, etc.. My first two knives I was worried I had wasted my money. By knife #5 I wasn't worried any more about if I had wasted my money on the WE. Your first two knives or so should be ones you don't care much about or worry about messing up.'' [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=2&id=8628&Itemid=63#8637 (Reference)]

- Check this page, [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=118:i-just-got-my-wicked-edge-and-sharpened-my-first-knife-its-not-as-sharp-as-i-thought-it-would-be-whats-going-wrong&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 My knife isn't as sharp as I thought...] for more information.

== '''Additional Resources''' ==

A [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=71:basic-knife-sharpening-instructions&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=88 Basic Instructions] page for using the Wicked Edge

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=31&Itemid=75 Wicked Edge FAQ]

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=listcat&Itemid=64 Wicked Edge Forum]. Here you'll find many members, both new and experienced, ready to help with any questions you might have. Join today!

Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge

2013-03-15T12:36:25Z

Cbwx34:

This page is a guide for the new user in setting up and using the Wicked Edge. It provides more detail as well as links to other pages of interest.

== '''Setup''' ==

Make sure you have all the parts, and the Wicked Edge is correctly assembled.

A pdf page with a packing list, and setup instructions can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/files/Pro-Pack%20II%20Assembly%20-%20Web.pdf Pro Pack II Assembly]. (It also contains a part list for the Pro Pack I and II).

For your first couple of sharpenings, consider selecting a practice knife that is fairly easy to sharpen, and not a high end or custom knife. A 3-4 inch kitchen or pocket knife, or small hunting knife is a good choice. It should also be a knife you can practice on, without worry of messing up. This gives you the opportunity to become familiar with the system, as well as give your diamond stones the opportunity to break in.

=== Additional Setup Tips ===

While not necessary, consider lightly sanding the bottom screw of the clamp. This screw pushes against the opposite clamp, and if it has any rough edges, can dig into the clamp. (Note: this does not cause any sharpening issues... more of a cosmetic issue).

For a location, pick an area free from distractions, and with good lighting. The sharpener should be comfortable to work, the base usually a little above waist level.

== '''Clamping the Knife''' ==

Most knives clamp without issue. Set the depth using either the upper or lower holes on the clamp. The angles are calibrated for a knife that extends 5/8" (15.875mm) above the clamp. Insert the depth key with the horizontal alignment guide ruler at the appropriate height. Consider taping the spine of the knife, especially when learning, so that, if the knife slips in the clamp, it won't scratch the sides.

Set the width of the clamp, so it's the same as, or just slightly wider than the knife. Tighten the top screw first, then the bottom screw, to lock the blade in.

You also need to set the knife so that the amount of metal removed as you approach the tip is consistent with the rest of the bevel. To do this, the knife is adjusted horizontally, (changing the distance from the clamp to the tip). This can be done by marking the edge with a Sharpie (see "Setting the Angle" section), and adjusting the knife so the marker is removed along the entire bevel, or center of the bevel, as you approach the tip. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=91:finding-the-sweet-spot-positioning-your-knife-from-front-to-back&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=81 Positioning your Knife Front to Back].

Once you have the knife properly positioned, you'll want to record your settings for future reference. This is one of the key concepts of the Wicked Edge... the ability to quickly replicate your previous work, so you can quickly touch up a knife without having to grind in a new edge every time.

There is a [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_joodb&view=catalog&Itemid=94 Knife Database] that other users contribute to, with the settings they've used on a particular knife. A good reference to check to see what others are doing. (And when you're done, add your results to it.)

One knife that some users have trouble with, is the "Full Flat Grind" (FFG), which is a knife that tapers from spine to tip. If you pay attention, you can clamp the blade by insuring that it stays vertical as you tighten the screws. Additionally, you can use a small piece of foam tape on the clamps, or use a thin piece of leather or moleskin wrapped around the spine where it is clamped. Additional tips can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78:can-the-wicked-edge-sharpen-fully-flat-ground-blades&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 Sharpening a Fully Flat Ground Blade].

== '''Setting the Angle''' ==

Determining the angle to sharpen at, is one of the most asked questions. When starting, there are two methods. One method, is to follow the suggestions in the User's Guide. The 2nd method, and perhaps the one recommended for new users, is to match the angle that is currently on the knife. This is done by marking the edge with a Sharpie, or other marker, making a light pass with a fine stone and adjusting the angle until the stone removes the marker from the majority of the bevel. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=69:how-to-find-your-angle&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=89 How to Find your Angle]. By matching the angle that is on the knife, you can concentrate on the sharpening process, and achieve a sharp knife without spending a lot of time (and maybe becoming a little frustrated).

=== The Calibration Points of the Wicked Edge ===

The Wicked Edge angles, like all angle controlled sharpeners, are based on certain "calibration points". Being aware of these points will help in determining how to setup your knife and angles.

* Height: The angles are based on a knife that extends 5/8 inch above the top of the clamp. For a knife that is higher, the angle sharpened will be smaller than indicated.
* Width: The angles are based on a knife that is no wider than .125 inches. For wider knives, adjust the '''right angle only''' out 1 degree for every .125 in. in thickness. (This is an approximation, for example a knife that is slightly wider, say .130 in. probably doesn't need this adjustment)
* Length: There is no calibration for length, since the angle does not change along the straight portion of an edge. So always set the knife based on the contact of the stone to the belly/tip area.

If you have a digital angle gauge, using this in combination with the above guide, will help to quickly and accurately set your angles. Even with out the angle gauge, using this guide will help "dial in" the correct angle.

Always record your settings, so you can quickly and easily repeat the previous sharpening!

== '''Sharpening''' ==

Sharpening is pretty straightforward. Begin on one side at the heel (back) of the knife, with the stone as low as it will go. Using light pressure, move the stone down the edge, at the same time going up the rod. Stop as you reach the tip. Be careful not to rotate the stone around the tip or you can grind it off. Go slow... speed comes with experience. It doesn't take long to learn the technique and pick up the pace, it will take longer to "unlearn" a wrong technique.

After learning the above, the second technique is for setting a bevel on a very dull knife, lowering the angle, or fixing some minor damage. This technique is "scrubbing" the stone, (usually a coarse stone), up and down as you move the stone down the edge. Again, start slow, use light pressure, and pay attention... you can remove metal faster than you realize.

=== Things to watch for during sharpening ===

Some additional points to watch for during sharpening include:

- Look at what's happening on the knife. Make sure metal is being removed where you want, and not being removed where you don't.

- Don't set too low of an angle. Rare, but make sure the stones aren't contacting the clamp or screws.

- Wipe the blade between stones, and especially between strops, so that you don't cross contaminate them.

== '''My knife isn't as sharp as I thought...''' ==

Some users, after sharpening a couple of knives, don't get the results they expect, especially after watching a few videos where other users are getting shaving or "hair whittling" edges. There are a few reasons for this.

- Break-in of the diamond stones. The diamond stones, when new, are a bit more aggressive than their actual rating. As they're used, they settle in, and perform closer to their rating.

- Not sharpening all the way to the edge, is another common mistake. There is a misconception in sharpening, that if X number of strokes are applied, the knife will be sharp. One way to tell if you've reached the edge is to create a burr. A burr is a small piece of metal that folds over when the edge is reached. You can see an example here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70:drawing-a-burr-with-the-wicked-edge-knife-sharpener&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=90 Creating a burr]. The easiest way to know you've reached the edge, ties into marking the edge with a Sharpie marker... when you've removed the marker all the way to the edge, chances are you've reached it.

- Too much pressure. Another technique to pay attention to, is how much pressure is applied. Lighter is better, and its often lighter than you think. It doesn't take much for the diamond stones, ceramics or strops to do their work.

Here's an excellent quote from Geocyclist:

''DO NOT be disappointed with your first or 5th knife. A.) It takes 5 - 10 or so knives to break in the diamond stones. The first knife will probably not blow your mind. B.) Your technique will improve. It took me to about my 7th knife to finally say I had a Wicked sharp edge, with mirror polish, even bevels, etc.. My first two knives I was worried I had wasted my money. By knife #5 I wasn't worried any more about if I had wasted my money on the WE. Your first two knives or so should be ones you don't care much about or worry about messing up.'' [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=2&id=8628&Itemid=63#8637 (Reference)]

- Check this page, [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=118:i-just-got-my-wicked-edge-and-sharpened-my-first-knife-its-not-as-sharp-as-i-thought-it-would-be-whats-going-wrong&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 My knife isn't as sharp as I thought...] for more information.

== '''Additional Resources''' ==

A [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=71:basic-knife-sharpening-instructions&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=88 Basic Instructions] page for using the Wicked Edge

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=31&Itemid=75 Wicked Edge FAQ]

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=listcat&Itemid=64 Wicked Edge Forum]. Here you'll find many members, both new and experienced, ready to help with any questions you might have. Join today!

Main Page

2013-03-11T12:44:11Z

Cbwx34: /* Wicked Edge User Information */

= Index to the Wicked Edge Wiki =

== Wicked Edge User Information ==

[[Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge]]

[[Wicked Edge New User Info]]

[[Advanced Sharpening Techniques]]

[[Sharpening Different Blade Styles]]

== Abrasives ==

[[Abrasives Type and Use]]

[[Use of Waterstones by Philip Pasteur]]

[[Stones and Strops]]

== Sharpening ==

[[Glossary of Sharpening Terms]]

[[Testing for Sharpness]]

[[Theories of Sharpening]]

[[Dihedral Angles in Knife Sharpening by Anthony Yan]]

== Steel ==

[[Types of Steel]]

== Wicked Edge Sharpeners ==

[[Wicked Edge Field and Sport Model]]

== Wicked Edge References ==

[[Wicked Edge Forum Links]]

[[Wicked Edge Videos]]

[[Wicked Edge Library]]

----
My goal for the Wiki is simple - to create a place where our community can build a resource that is a rich source of information on everything knife, and giving some of our best conversations a home there is a really good fit. I eventually want to have a big knife and sharpening glossary, a steel database and as many articles geared toward sharpening as we can manage.

[http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=3&id=6135&limit=10&limitstart=20&Itemid=63#6220 Quote from Clay, Owner of the Wicked Edge]

Sharpening Different Blade Styles

2013-03-11T12:40:08Z

Cbwx34: Created page with "Sample photos of "unusual" or different blade styles/types/grinds, being sharpened on the Wicked Edge... [[image:Unusual01.jpg|left|thumb|The "top" or spine side of a Bird/Tr..."

File:Unusual02.jpg

2013-03-11T12:39:02Z

Cbwx34:

File:Unusual01.jpg

2013-03-11T12:29:19Z

Cbwx34: The "top" of a Bird/Trout knife

The "top" of a Bird/Trout knife

Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge

2013-03-08T20:31:10Z

Cbwx34: /* Clamping the Knife */

This page is a guide for the new user in setting up and using the Wicked Edge. It provides more detail as well as links to other pages of interest.

== Setup ==

Make sure you have all the parts, and the Wicked Edge is correctly assembled.

A pdf page with a packing list, and setup instructions can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/files/Pro-Pack%20II%20Assembly%20-%20Web.pdf Pro Pack II Assembly]. (It also contains a part list for the Pro Pack I and II).

For your first couple of sharpenings, consider selecting a practice knife that is fairly easy to sharpen, and not a high end or custom knife. A 3-4 inch kitchen or pocket knife, or small hunting knife is a good choice. It should also be a knife you can practice on, without worry of messing up. This gives you the opportunity to become familiar with the system, as well as give your diamond stones the opportunity to break in.

=== Additional Setup Tips ===

While not necessary, consider lightly sanding the bottom screw of the clamp. This screw pushes against the opposite clamp, and if it has any rough edges, can dig into the clamp. (Note: this does not cause any sharpening issues... more of a cosmetic issue).

For a location, pick an area free from distractions, and with good lighting. The sharpener should be comfortable to work, the base usually a little above waist level.

== Clamping the Knife ==

Most knives clamp without issue. Set the depth using either the upper or lower holes on the clamp. The angles are calibrated for a knife that extends 5/8" (15.875mm) above the clamp. Insert the depth key with the horizontal alignment guide ruler at the appropriate height. Consider taping the spine of the knife, especially when learning, so that, if the knife slips in the clamp, it won't scratch the sides.

Set the width of the clamp, so it's the same as, or just slightly wider than the knife. Tighten the top screw first, then the bottom screw, to lock the blade in.

You also need to set the knife so that the amount of metal removed as you approach the tip is consistent with the rest of the bevel. To do this, the knife is adjusted horizontally, (changing the distance from the clamp to the tip). This can be done by marking the edge with a Sharpie (see "Setting the Angle" section), and adjusting the knife so the marker is removed along the entire bevel, or center of the bevel, as you approach the tip. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=91:finding-the-sweet-spot-positioning-your-knife-from-front-to-back&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=81 Positioning your Knife Front to Back].

Once you have the knife properly positioned, you'll want to record your settings for future reference. This is one of the key concepts of the Wicked Edge... the ability to quickly replicate your previous work, so you can quickly touch up a knife without having to grind in a new edge every time.

There is a [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_joodb&view=catalog&Itemid=94 Knife Database] that other users contribute to, with the settings they've used on a particular knife. A good reference to check to see what others are doing. (And when you're done, add your results to it.)

One knife that some users have trouble with, is the "Full Flat Grind" (FFG), which is a knife that tapers from spine to tip. If you pay attention, you can clamp the blade by insuring that it stays vertical as you tighten the screws. Additionally, you can use a small piece of foam tape on the clamps, or use a thin piece of leather or moleskin wrapped around the spine where it is clamped. Additional tips can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78:can-the-wicked-edge-sharpen-fully-flat-ground-blades&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 Sharpening a Fully Flat Ground Blade].

== Setting the Angle ==

Determining the angle to sharpen at, is one of the most asked questions. When starting, there are two methods. One method, is to follow the suggestions in the User's Guide. The 2nd method, and perhaps the one recommended for new users, is to match the angle that is currently on the knife. This is done by marking the edge with a Sharpie, or other marker, making a light pass with a fine stone and adjusting the angle until the stone removes the marker from the majority of the bevel. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=69:how-to-find-your-angle&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=89 How to Find your Angle]. By matching the angle that is on the knife, you can concentrate on the sharpening process, and achieve a sharp knife without spending a lot of time (and maybe becoming a little frustrated).

== Sharpening ==

Sharpening is pretty straightforward. Begin on one side at the heel (back) of the knife, with the stone as low as it will go. Using light pressure, move the stone down the edge, at the same time going up the rod. Stop as you reach the tip. Be careful not to rotate the stone around the tip or you can grind it off. Go slow... speed comes with experience. It doesn't take long to learn the technique and pick up the pace, it will take longer to "unlearn" a wrong technique.

After learning the above, the second technique is for setting a bevel on a very dull knife, lowering the angle, or fixing some minor damage. This technique is "scrubbing" the stone, (usually a coarse stone), up and down as you move the stone down the edge. Again, start slow, use light pressure, and pay attention... you can remove metal faster than you realize.

=== Things to watch for during sharpening ===

Some additional points to watch for during sharpening include:

- Look at what's happening on the knife. Make sure metal is being removed where you want, and not being removed where you don't.

- Don't set too low of an angle. Rare, but make sure the stones aren't contacting the clamp or screws.

- Wipe the blade between stones, and especially between strops, so that you don't cross contaminate them.

== My knife isn't as sharp as I thought... ==

Some users, after sharpening a couple of knives, don't get the results they expect, especially after watching a few videos where other users are getting shaving or "hair whittling" edges. There are a few reasons for this.

- Break-in of the diamond stones. The diamond stones, when new, are a bit more aggressive than their actual rating. As they're used, they settle in, and perform closer to their rating.

- Not sharpening all the way to the edge, is another common mistake. There is a misconception in sharpening, that if X number of strokes are applied, the knife will be sharp. One way to tell if you've reached the edge is to create a burr. A burr is a small piece of metal that folds over when the edge is reached. You can see an example here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70:drawing-a-burr-with-the-wicked-edge-knife-sharpener&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=90 Creating a burr]. The easiest way to know you've reached the edge, ties into marking the edge with a Sharpie marker... when you've removed the marker all the way to the edge, chances are you've reached it.

- Too much pressure. Another technique to pay attention to, is how much pressure is applied. Lighter is better, and its often lighter than you think. It doesn't take much for the diamond stones, ceramics or strops to do their work.

Here's an excellent quote from Geocyclist:

''DO NOT be disappointed with your first or 5th knife. A.) It takes 5 - 10 or so knives to break in the diamond stones. The first knife will probably not blow your mind. B.) Your technique will improve. It took me to about my 7th knife to finally say I had a Wicked sharp edge, with mirror polish, even bevels, etc.. My first two knives I was worried I had wasted my money. By knife #5 I wasn't worried any more about if I had wasted my money on the WE. Your first two knives or so should be ones you don't care much about or worry about messing up.'' [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=2&id=8628&Itemid=63#8637 (Reference)]

- Check this page, [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=118:i-just-got-my-wicked-edge-and-sharpened-my-first-knife-its-not-as-sharp-as-i-thought-it-would-be-whats-going-wrong&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 My knife isn't as sharp as I thought...] for more information.

== Additional Resources ==

A [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=71:basic-knife-sharpening-instructions&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=88 Basic Instructions] page for using the Wicked Edge

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=31&Itemid=75 Wicked Edge FAQ]

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=listcat&Itemid=64 Wicked Edge Forum]. Here you'll find many members, both new and experienced, ready to help with any questions you might have. Join today!

Wicked Edge Videos

2013-03-08T14:59:26Z

Cbwx34:

== Videos from Clay Allison, owner of the Wicked Edge ==

----
[http://www.youtube.com/user/clayallison1969/featured Clay's YouTube Channel]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mzL41ygQG0o Wicked Edge Knife Sharpener Demo]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0W0xrJ2IlCI Field & Sport Model]
----
== A complete sharpening of a knife on the Wicked Edge, from setup to stropping, by smokeeater908 ==

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k3QNucrD6G4 Using the Wicked Edge Part 1: The Setup]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MkcwSowIVXo Using the Wicked Edge Part 2: The Sharpening]

[http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlmCG7sSfB0 Using the Wicked Edge Part 3: Stropping]
----

Main Page

2013-03-08T14:24:15Z

Cbwx34: /* Wicked Edge References */

= Index to the Wicked Edge Wiki =

== Wicked Edge User Information ==

[[Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge]]

[[Wicked Edge New User Info]]

[[Advanced Sharpening Techniques]]

== Abrasives ==

[[Abrasives Type and Use]]

[[Use of Waterstones by Philip Pasteur]]

[[Stones and Strops]]

== Sharpening ==

[[Glossary of Sharpening Terms]]

[[Testing for Sharpness]]

[[Theories of Sharpening]]

[[Dihedral Angles in Knife Sharpening by Anthony Yan]]

== Steel ==

[[Types of Steel]]

== Wicked Edge Sharpeners ==

[[Wicked Edge Field and Sport Model]]

== Wicked Edge References ==

[[Wicked Edge Forum Links]]

[[Wicked Edge Videos]]

[[Wicked Edge Library]]

----
My goal for the Wiki is simple - to create a place where our community can build a resource that is a rich source of information on everything knife, and giving some of our best conversations a home there is a really good fit. I eventually want to have a big knife and sharpening glossary, a steel database and as many articles geared toward sharpening as we can manage.

[http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=3&id=6135&limit=10&limitstart=20&Itemid=63#6220 Quote from Clay, Owner of the Wicked Edge]

Wicked Edge Forum Links

2013-03-08T14:22:34Z

Cbwx34: /* The Library */

Wicked Edge Library

2013-03-08T14:21:40Z

Cbwx34: Created page with "= The Library = Links to interesting literature, blogs and forums == Literature == * The classic book by Prof. Verhoeven: Verhoeven, John D. (2004). Experime..."

= The Library =

Links to interesting literature, blogs and forums

 

== Literature ==

* The classic book by Prof. Verhoeven: Verhoeven, John D. (2004). Experiments on Knife Sharpening. http://www-archive.mse.iastate.edu/fileadmin/www.mse.iastate.edu/static/files/verhoeven/KnifeShExps.pdf .
* An introduction to metallurgy by Prof. Verhoeven: Verhoeven, John D. (2005). Metallurgy of Steel for Bladesmiths & Others who Heat Treat and Forge Steel. http://www.feine-klingen.de/PDFs/verhoeven.pdf
* History of sharpening, stones, strops and practical how-to's, part 1: Bos, Henk (2012). Grinding and Honing, part 1. http://bosq.home.xs4all.nl/info%2020m/grinding_and_honing_part_1.pdf
* History of sharpening, stones, strops and practical how-to's, part 2: Bos, Henk (2012). Grinding and Honing, part 2. http://bosq.home.xs4all.nl/info%2020m/grinding_and_honing_part_2.pdf

 

== Blogs by forum members ==

* Sharpening techniques (Clay - Wicked Edge): http://sharpeningtechniques.blogspot.nl/
* Jende Industries (Tom): http://jendeindustries.wordpress.com/
* Precise sharpening (Ken): http://preciseknifesharpening.blogspot.nl/
* Belgian sharpening (Michiel): http://belgiansharpening.wordpress.com/
* HowsharpIsIt (Dan): http://www.howsharpisit.com/
* Molecule polishing (Mark): http://moleculepolishing.wordpress.com/

 

== Forums with sections on sharpening ==

* Bladeforums: http://www.bladeforums.com/
* Knifeforums: http://www.knifeforums.com/
* Chef knives to go: http://www.chefknivestogoforum.com/
* Kitchen knife forum: http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/
* Foodieforums: http://www.foodieforums.com/

Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge

2013-02-14T15:02:43Z

Cbwx34: /* Setup */

This page is a guide for the new user in setting up and using the Wicked Edge. It provides more detail as well as links to other pages of interest.

== Setup ==

Make sure you have all the parts, and the Wicked Edge is correctly assembled.

A pdf page with a packing list, and setup instructions can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/files/Pro-Pack%20II%20Assembly%20-%20Web.pdf Pro Pack II Assembly]. (It also contains a part list for the Pro Pack I and II).

For your first couple of sharpenings, consider selecting a practice knife that is fairly easy to sharpen, and not a high end or custom knife. A 3-4 inch kitchen or pocket knife, or small hunting knife is a good choice. It should also be a knife you can practice on, without worry of messing up. This gives you the opportunity to become familiar with the system, as well as give your diamond stones the opportunity to break in.

=== Additional Setup Tips ===

While not necessary, consider lightly sanding the bottom screw of the clamp. This screw pushes against the opposite clamp, and if it has any rough edges, can dig into the clamp. (Note: this does not cause any sharpening issues... more of a cosmetic issue).

For a location, pick an area free from distractions, and with good lighting. The sharpener should be comfortable to work, the base usually a little above waist level.

== Clamping the Knife ==

Most knives clamp without issue. Set the depth using either the upper or lower holes on the clamp. The angles are calibrated for a knife that extends 5/8" (15.875mm) above the clamp. Insert the depth key with the horizontal alignment guide ruler at the appropriate height. Consider taping the spine of the knife, especially when learning, so that, if the knife slips in the clamp, it won't scratch the sides.

You also need to set the knife so that the amount of metal removed as you approach the tip is consistent with the rest of the bevel. To do this, the knife is adjusted horizontally, (changing the distance from the clamp to the tip). This can be done by marking the edge with a Sharpie (see "Setting the Angle" section), and adjusting the knife so the marker is removed along the entire bevel, or center of the bevel, as you approach the tip. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=91:finding-the-sweet-spot-positioning-your-knife-from-front-to-back&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=81 Positioning your Knife Front to Back].

Once you have the knife properly positioned, you'll want to record your settings for future reference. This is one of the key concepts of the Wicked Edge... the ability to quickly replicate your previous work, so you can quickly touch up a knife without having to grind in a new edge every time.

There is a [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_joodb&view=catalog&Itemid=94 Knife Database] that other users contribute to, with the settings they've used on a particular knife. A good reference to check to see what others are doing. (And when you're done, add your results to it.)

One knife that some users have trouble with, is the "Full Flat Grind" (FFG), which is a knife that tapers from spine to tip. If you pay attention, you can clamp the blade by insuring that it stays vertical as you tighten the screws. Additionally, you can use a small piece of foam tape on the clamps, or use a thin piece of leather or moleskin wrapped around the spine where it is clamped. Additional tips can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78:can-the-wicked-edge-sharpen-fully-flat-ground-blades&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 Sharpening a Fully Flat Ground Blade].

== Setting the Angle ==

Determining the angle to sharpen at, is one of the most asked questions. When starting, there are two methods. One method, is to follow the suggestions in the User's Guide. The 2nd method, and perhaps the one recommended for new users, is to match the angle that is currently on the knife. This is done by marking the edge with a Sharpie, or other marker, making a light pass with a fine stone and adjusting the angle until the stone removes the marker from the majority of the bevel. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=69:how-to-find-your-angle&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=89 How to Find your Angle]. By matching the angle that is on the knife, you can concentrate on the sharpening process, and achieve a sharp knife without spending a lot of time (and maybe becoming a little frustrated).

== Sharpening ==

Sharpening is pretty straightforward. Begin on one side at the heel (back) of the knife, with the stone as low as it will go. Using light pressure, move the stone down the edge, at the same time going up the rod. Stop as you reach the tip. Be careful not to rotate the stone around the tip or you can grind it off. Go slow... speed comes with experience. It doesn't take long to learn the technique and pick up the pace, it will take longer to "unlearn" a wrong technique.

After learning the above, the second technique is for setting a bevel on a very dull knife, lowering the angle, or fixing some minor damage. This technique is "scrubbing" the stone, (usually a coarse stone), up and down as you move the stone down the edge. Again, start slow, use light pressure, and pay attention... you can remove metal faster than you realize.

=== Things to watch for during sharpening ===

Some additional points to watch for during sharpening include:

- Look at what's happening on the knife. Make sure metal is being removed where you want, and not being removed where you don't.

- Don't set too low of an angle. Rare, but make sure the stones aren't contacting the clamp or screws.

- Wipe the blade between stones, and especially between strops, so that you don't cross contaminate them.

== My knife isn't as sharp as I thought... ==

Some users, after sharpening a couple of knives, don't get the results they expect, especially after watching a few videos where other users are getting shaving or "hair whittling" edges. There are a few reasons for this.

- Break-in of the diamond stones. The diamond stones, when new, are a bit more aggressive than their actual rating. As they're used, they settle in, and perform closer to their rating.

- Not sharpening all the way to the edge, is another common mistake. There is a misconception in sharpening, that if X number of strokes are applied, the knife will be sharp. One way to tell if you've reached the edge is to create a burr. A burr is a small piece of metal that folds over when the edge is reached. You can see an example here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70:drawing-a-burr-with-the-wicked-edge-knife-sharpener&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=90 Creating a burr]. The easiest way to know you've reached the edge, ties into marking the edge with a Sharpie marker... when you've removed the marker all the way to the edge, chances are you've reached it.

- Too much pressure. Another technique to pay attention to, is how much pressure is applied. Lighter is better, and its often lighter than you think. It doesn't take much for the diamond stones, ceramics or strops to do their work.

Here's an excellent quote from Geocyclist:

''DO NOT be disappointed with your first or 5th knife. A.) It takes 5 - 10 or so knives to break in the diamond stones. The first knife will probably not blow your mind. B.) Your technique will improve. It took me to about my 7th knife to finally say I had a Wicked sharp edge, with mirror polish, even bevels, etc.. My first two knives I was worried I had wasted my money. By knife #5 I wasn't worried any more about if I had wasted my money on the WE. Your first two knives or so should be ones you don't care much about or worry about messing up.'' [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=2&id=8628&Itemid=63#8637 (Reference)]

- Check this page, [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=118:i-just-got-my-wicked-edge-and-sharpened-my-first-knife-its-not-as-sharp-as-i-thought-it-would-be-whats-going-wrong&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 My knife isn't as sharp as I thought...] for more information.

== Additional Resources ==

A [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=71:basic-knife-sharpening-instructions&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=88 Basic Instructions] page for using the Wicked Edge

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=31&Itemid=75 Wicked Edge FAQ]

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=listcat&Itemid=64 Wicked Edge Forum]. Here you'll find many members, both new and experienced, ready to help with any questions you might have. Join today!

Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge

2013-02-14T14:55:54Z

Cbwx34: /* Setup */

This page is a guide for the new user in setting up and using the Wicked Edge. It provides more detail as well as links to other pages of interest.

== Setup ==

Make sure you have all the parts, and the Wicked Edge is correctly assembled.

A pdf page with a packing list, and setup instructions can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/files/Pro-Pack%20II%20Assembly%20-%20Web.pdf Pro Pack II Assembly]. (It also contains a part list for the Pro Pack I and II).

For your first couple of sharpenings, consider selecting a practice knife that is fairly easy to sharpen, and not a high end or custom knife. A 3-4 inch kitchen or pocket knife, or small hunting knife is a good choice. It should also be a knife you can practice on, without worry of messing up. This gives you the opportunity to become familiar with the system, as well as give your diamond stones the opportunity to break in.

=== Additional Setup Tips ===

While not necessary, consider lightly sanding the bottom screw of the clamp. This screw pushes against the opposite clamp, and if it has any rough edges, can dig into the clamp. (Note: this does not cause any sharpening issues... more of a cosmetic issue).

== Clamping the Knife ==

Most knives clamp without issue. Set the depth using either the upper or lower holes on the clamp. The angles are calibrated for a knife that extends 5/8" (15.875mm) above the clamp. Insert the depth key with the horizontal alignment guide ruler at the appropriate height. Consider taping the spine of the knife, especially when learning, so that, if the knife slips in the clamp, it won't scratch the sides.

You also need to set the knife so that the amount of metal removed as you approach the tip is consistent with the rest of the bevel. To do this, the knife is adjusted horizontally, (changing the distance from the clamp to the tip). This can be done by marking the edge with a Sharpie (see "Setting the Angle" section), and adjusting the knife so the marker is removed along the entire bevel, or center of the bevel, as you approach the tip. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=91:finding-the-sweet-spot-positioning-your-knife-from-front-to-back&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=81 Positioning your Knife Front to Back].

Once you have the knife properly positioned, you'll want to record your settings for future reference. This is one of the key concepts of the Wicked Edge... the ability to quickly replicate your previous work, so you can quickly touch up a knife without having to grind in a new edge every time.

There is a [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_joodb&view=catalog&Itemid=94 Knife Database] that other users contribute to, with the settings they've used on a particular knife. A good reference to check to see what others are doing. (And when you're done, add your results to it.)

One knife that some users have trouble with, is the "Full Flat Grind" (FFG), which is a knife that tapers from spine to tip. If you pay attention, you can clamp the blade by insuring that it stays vertical as you tighten the screws. Additionally, you can use a small piece of foam tape on the clamps, or use a thin piece of leather or moleskin wrapped around the spine where it is clamped. Additional tips can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78:can-the-wicked-edge-sharpen-fully-flat-ground-blades&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 Sharpening a Fully Flat Ground Blade].

== Setting the Angle ==

Determining the angle to sharpen at, is one of the most asked questions. When starting, there are two methods. One method, is to follow the suggestions in the User's Guide. The 2nd method, and perhaps the one recommended for new users, is to match the angle that is currently on the knife. This is done by marking the edge with a Sharpie, or other marker, making a light pass with a fine stone and adjusting the angle until the stone removes the marker from the majority of the bevel. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=69:how-to-find-your-angle&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=89 How to Find your Angle]. By matching the angle that is on the knife, you can concentrate on the sharpening process, and achieve a sharp knife without spending a lot of time (and maybe becoming a little frustrated).

== Sharpening ==

Sharpening is pretty straightforward. Begin on one side at the heel (back) of the knife, with the stone as low as it will go. Using light pressure, move the stone down the edge, at the same time going up the rod. Stop as you reach the tip. Be careful not to rotate the stone around the tip or you can grind it off. Go slow... speed comes with experience. It doesn't take long to learn the technique and pick up the pace, it will take longer to "unlearn" a wrong technique.

After learning the above, the second technique is for setting a bevel on a very dull knife, lowering the angle, or fixing some minor damage. This technique is "scrubbing" the stone, (usually a coarse stone), up and down as you move the stone down the edge. Again, start slow, use light pressure, and pay attention... you can remove metal faster than you realize.

=== Things to watch for during sharpening ===

Some additional points to watch for during sharpening include:

- Look at what's happening on the knife. Make sure metal is being removed where you want, and not being removed where you don't.

- Don't set too low of an angle. Rare, but make sure the stones aren't contacting the clamp or screws.

- Wipe the blade between stones, and especially between strops, so that you don't cross contaminate them.

== My knife isn't as sharp as I thought... ==

Some users, after sharpening a couple of knives, don't get the results they expect, especially after watching a few videos where other users are getting shaving or "hair whittling" edges. There are a few reasons for this.

- Break-in of the diamond stones. The diamond stones, when new, are a bit more aggressive than their actual rating. As they're used, they settle in, and perform closer to their rating.

- Not sharpening all the way to the edge, is another common mistake. There is a misconception in sharpening, that if X number of strokes are applied, the knife will be sharp. One way to tell if you've reached the edge is to create a burr. A burr is a small piece of metal that folds over when the edge is reached. You can see an example here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70:drawing-a-burr-with-the-wicked-edge-knife-sharpener&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=90 Creating a burr]. The easiest way to know you've reached the edge, ties into marking the edge with a Sharpie marker... when you've removed the marker all the way to the edge, chances are you've reached it.

- Too much pressure. Another technique to pay attention to, is how much pressure is applied. Lighter is better, and its often lighter than you think. It doesn't take much for the diamond stones, ceramics or strops to do their work.

Here's an excellent quote from Geocyclist:

''DO NOT be disappointed with your first or 5th knife. A.) It takes 5 - 10 or so knives to break in the diamond stones. The first knife will probably not blow your mind. B.) Your technique will improve. It took me to about my 7th knife to finally say I had a Wicked sharp edge, with mirror polish, even bevels, etc.. My first two knives I was worried I had wasted my money. By knife #5 I wasn't worried any more about if I had wasted my money on the WE. Your first two knives or so should be ones you don't care much about or worry about messing up.'' [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=2&id=8628&Itemid=63#8637 (Reference)]

- Check this page, [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=118:i-just-got-my-wicked-edge-and-sharpened-my-first-knife-its-not-as-sharp-as-i-thought-it-would-be-whats-going-wrong&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 My knife isn't as sharp as I thought...] for more information.

== Additional Resources ==

A [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=71:basic-knife-sharpening-instructions&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=88 Basic Instructions] page for using the Wicked Edge

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=31&Itemid=75 Wicked Edge FAQ]

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=listcat&Itemid=64 Wicked Edge Forum]. Here you'll find many members, both new and experienced, ready to help with any questions you might have. Join today!

Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge

2013-02-14T14:29:06Z

Cbwx34: /* Additional tips */

This page is a guide for the new user in setting up and using the Wicked Edge. It provides more detail as well as links to other pages of interest.

== Setup ==

Make sure you have all the parts, and the Wicked Edge is correctly assembled.

A pdf page with a packing list, and setup instructions can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/files/Pro-Pack%20II%20Assembly%20-%20Web.pdf Pro Pack II Assembly]. (It also contains a part list for the Pro Pack I and II).

=== Additional Setup Tips ===

While not necessary, consider lightly sanding the bottom screw of the clamp. This screw pushes against the opposite clamp, and if it has any rough edges, can dig into the clamp. (Note: this does not cause any sharpening issues... more of a cosmetic issue).

== Clamping the Knife ==

Most knives clamp without issue. Set the depth using either the upper or lower holes on the clamp. The angles are calibrated for a knife that extends 5/8" (15.875mm) above the clamp. Insert the depth key with the horizontal alignment guide ruler at the appropriate height. Consider taping the spine of the knife, especially when learning, so that, if the knife slips in the clamp, it won't scratch the sides.

You also need to set the knife so that the amount of metal removed as you approach the tip is consistent with the rest of the bevel. To do this, the knife is adjusted horizontally, (changing the distance from the clamp to the tip). This can be done by marking the edge with a Sharpie (see "Setting the Angle" section), and adjusting the knife so the marker is removed along the entire bevel, or center of the bevel, as you approach the tip. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=91:finding-the-sweet-spot-positioning-your-knife-from-front-to-back&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=81 Positioning your Knife Front to Back].

Once you have the knife properly positioned, you'll want to record your settings for future reference. This is one of the key concepts of the Wicked Edge... the ability to quickly replicate your previous work, so you can quickly touch up a knife without having to grind in a new edge every time.

There is a [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_joodb&view=catalog&Itemid=94 Knife Database] that other users contribute to, with the settings they've used on a particular knife. A good reference to check to see what others are doing. (And when you're done, add your results to it.)

One knife that some users have trouble with, is the "Full Flat Grind" (FFG), which is a knife that tapers from spine to tip. If you pay attention, you can clamp the blade by insuring that it stays vertical as you tighten the screws. Additionally, you can use a small piece of foam tape on the clamps, or use a thin piece of leather or moleskin wrapped around the spine where it is clamped. Additional tips can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78:can-the-wicked-edge-sharpen-fully-flat-ground-blades&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 Sharpening a Fully Flat Ground Blade].

== Setting the Angle ==

Determining the angle to sharpen at, is one of the most asked questions. When starting, there are two methods. One method, is to follow the suggestions in the User's Guide. The 2nd method, and perhaps the one recommended for new users, is to match the angle that is currently on the knife. This is done by marking the edge with a Sharpie, or other marker, making a light pass with a fine stone and adjusting the angle until the stone removes the marker from the majority of the bevel. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=69:how-to-find-your-angle&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=89 How to Find your Angle]. By matching the angle that is on the knife, you can concentrate on the sharpening process, and achieve a sharp knife without spending a lot of time (and maybe becoming a little frustrated).

== Sharpening ==

Sharpening is pretty straightforward. Begin on one side at the heel (back) of the knife, with the stone as low as it will go. Using light pressure, move the stone down the edge, at the same time going up the rod. Stop as you reach the tip. Be careful not to rotate the stone around the tip or you can grind it off. Go slow... speed comes with experience. It doesn't take long to learn the technique and pick up the pace, it will take longer to "unlearn" a wrong technique.

After learning the above, the second technique is for setting a bevel on a very dull knife, lowering the angle, or fixing some minor damage. This technique is "scrubbing" the stone, (usually a coarse stone), up and down as you move the stone down the edge. Again, start slow, use light pressure, and pay attention... you can remove metal faster than you realize.

=== Things to watch for during sharpening ===

Some additional points to watch for during sharpening include:

- Look at what's happening on the knife. Make sure metal is being removed where you want, and not being removed where you don't.

- Don't set too low of an angle. Rare, but make sure the stones aren't contacting the clamp or screws.

- Wipe the blade between stones, and especially between strops, so that you don't cross contaminate them.

== My knife isn't as sharp as I thought... ==

Some users, after sharpening a couple of knives, don't get the results they expect, especially after watching a few videos where other users are getting shaving or "hair whittling" edges. There are a few reasons for this.

- Break-in of the diamond stones. The diamond stones, when new, are a bit more aggressive than their actual rating. As they're used, they settle in, and perform closer to their rating.

- Not sharpening all the way to the edge, is another common mistake. There is a misconception in sharpening, that if X number of strokes are applied, the knife will be sharp. One way to tell if you've reached the edge is to create a burr. A burr is a small piece of metal that folds over when the edge is reached. You can see an example here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70:drawing-a-burr-with-the-wicked-edge-knife-sharpener&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=90 Creating a burr]. The easiest way to know you've reached the edge, ties into marking the edge with a Sharpie marker... when you've removed the marker all the way to the edge, chances are you've reached it.

- Too much pressure. Another technique to pay attention to, is how much pressure is applied. Lighter is better, and its often lighter than you think. It doesn't take much for the diamond stones, ceramics or strops to do their work.

Here's an excellent quote from Geocyclist:

''DO NOT be disappointed with your first or 5th knife. A.) It takes 5 - 10 or so knives to break in the diamond stones. The first knife will probably not blow your mind. B.) Your technique will improve. It took me to about my 7th knife to finally say I had a Wicked sharp edge, with mirror polish, even bevels, etc.. My first two knives I was worried I had wasted my money. By knife #5 I wasn't worried any more about if I had wasted my money on the WE. Your first two knives or so should be ones you don't care much about or worry about messing up.'' [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=2&id=8628&Itemid=63#8637 (Reference)]

- Check this page, [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=118:i-just-got-my-wicked-edge-and-sharpened-my-first-knife-its-not-as-sharp-as-i-thought-it-would-be-whats-going-wrong&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 My knife isn't as sharp as I thought...] for more information.

== Additional Resources ==

A [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=71:basic-knife-sharpening-instructions&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=88 Basic Instructions] page for using the Wicked Edge

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=31&Itemid=75 Wicked Edge FAQ]

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=listcat&Itemid=64 Wicked Edge Forum]. Here you'll find many members, both new and experienced, ready to help with any questions you might have. Join today!

Advanced Sharpening Techniques

2013-01-20T21:08:59Z

Cbwx34:

== Setting the "Teeth" ==

== Raising a Burr ==

== Correcting Uneven Bevels ==

== Level of Finish ==

Glossary of Sharpening Terms

2013-01-20T21:04:10Z

Cbwx34: /* Types of Edges */

File:DoubleBevel.png

2013-01-20T21:03:13Z

Cbwx34:

Main Page

2013-01-20T20:44:40Z

Cbwx34: /* New User Info */

= Index to the Wicked Edge Wiki =

== Wicked Edge User Information ==

[[Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge]]

[[Wicked Edge New User Info]]

[[Advanced Sharpening Techniques]]

== Abrasives ==

[[Abrasives Type and Use]]

[[Use of Waterstones by Philip Pasteur]]

[[Stones and Strops]]

== Sharpening ==

[[Glossary of Sharpening Terms]]

[[Testing for Sharpness]]

[[Theories of Sharpening]]

[[Dihedral Angles in Knife Sharpening by Anthony Yan]]

== Steel ==

[[Types of Steel]]

== Wicked Edge Sharpeners ==

[[Wicked Edge Field and Sport Model]]

== Wicked Edge References ==

[[Wicked Edge Forum Links]]

[[Wicked Edge Videos]]

----
My goal for the Wiki is simple - to create a place where our community can build a resource that is a rich source of information on everything knife, and giving some of our best conversations a home there is a really good fit. I eventually want to have a big knife and sharpening glossary, a steel database and as many articles geared toward sharpening as we can manage.

[http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=3&id=6135&limit=10&limitstart=20&Itemid=63#6220 Quote from Clay, Owner of the Wicked Edge]

Glossary of Sharpening Terms

2013-01-20T20:39:57Z

Cbwx34: /* Parts of a Knife */

Glossary of Sharpening Terms

2013-01-20T20:36:09Z

Cbwx34: /* Types of Edges */

File:ChiselGrind.gif

2013-01-20T20:35:25Z

Cbwx34:

File:ConvexGrind.png

2013-01-20T20:34:00Z

Cbwx34:

File:FlatGrind.gif

2013-01-20T20:32:07Z

Cbwx34:

Glossary of Sharpening Terms

2013-01-20T20:21:36Z

Cbwx34:

Glossary of Sharpening Terms

2013-01-20T20:05:21Z

Cbwx34: /* Terms Used in Sharpening */

== Types of Edges ==

Straight or Flat Grind

Convex

Concave

== Terms Used in Sharpening ==

Burr: In engineering, a burr refers to the raised edge on a metal part. It may be present in the form of a fine wire on the edge of a freshly sharpened tool or as a raised portion on a surface, after being struck a blow from an equally hard, or heavy object.' A burr, also called a wire edge, is created as a result of sharpening metal. The burr forms on the edge of the knife where the planes of the bevels (or, in the case of one-sided knives or chisels, the plane of one face and the bevel) intersect. The diagram below shows the burr projecting from the edge of the knife:

[[image:Knife_edge_with_burr.gif]]

Edge Leading:

Edge Trailing

== Parts of a Knife ==

Tip

Heel

Ricasso

File:Knife edge with burr.gif

2013-01-20T19:57:08Z

Cbwx34:

Advanced Sharpening Techniques

2013-01-20T19:46:58Z

Cbwx34:

== Setting the "Teeth" ==

== Raising a Burr ==

Advanced Sharpening Techniques

2013-01-20T18:04:12Z

Cbwx34: Created page with " == Setting the "Teeth" =="

== Setting the "Teeth" ==

Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge

2013-01-20T17:48:15Z

Cbwx34: /* My knife isn't as sharp as I thought... */

This page is a guide for the new user in setting up and using the Wicked Edge. It provides more detail as well as links to other pages of interest.

== Setup ==

Make sure you have all the parts, and the Wicked Edge is correctly assembled.

A pdf page with a packing list, and setup instructions can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/files/Pro-Pack%20II%20Assembly%20-%20Web.pdf Pro Pack II Assembly]. (It also contains a part list for the Pro Pack I and II).

=== Additional Setup Tips ===

While not necessary, consider lightly sanding the bottom screw of the clamp. This screw pushes against the opposite clamp, and if it has any rough edges, can dig into the clamp. (Note: this does not cause any sharpening issues... more of a cosmetic issue).

== Clamping the Knife ==

Most knives clamp without issue. Set the depth using either the upper or lower holes on the clamp. The angles are calibrated for a knife that extends 5/8" (15.875mm) above the clamp. Insert the depth key with the horizontal alignment guide ruler at the appropriate height. Consider taping the spine of the knife, especially when learning, so that, if the knife slips in the clamp, it won't scratch the sides.

You also need to set the knife so that the amount of metal removed as you approach the tip is consistent with the rest of the bevel. To do this, the knife is adjusted horizontally, (changing the distance from the clamp to the tip). This can be done by marking the edge with a Sharpie (see "Setting the Angle" section), and adjusting the knife so the marker is removed along the entire bevel, or center of the bevel, as you approach the tip. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=91:finding-the-sweet-spot-positioning-your-knife-from-front-to-back&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=81 Positioning your Knife Front to Back].

Once you have the knife properly positioned, you'll want to record your settings for future reference. This is one of the key concepts of the Wicked Edge... the ability to quickly replicate your previous work, so you can quickly touch up a knife without having to grind in a new edge every time.

There is a [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_joodb&view=catalog&Itemid=94 Knife Database] that other users contribute to, with the settings they've used on a particular knife. A good reference to check to see what others are doing. (And when you're done, add your results to it.)

One knife that some users have trouble with, is the "Full Flat Grind" (FFG), which is a knife that tapers from spine to tip. If you pay attention, you can clamp the blade by insuring that it stays vertical as you tighten the screws. Additionally, you can use a small piece of foam tape on the clamps, or use a thin piece of leather or moleskin wrapped around the spine where it is clamped. Additional tips can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78:can-the-wicked-edge-sharpen-fully-flat-ground-blades&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 Sharpening a Fully Flat Ground Blade].

== Setting the Angle ==

Determining the angle to sharpen at, is one of the most asked questions. When starting, there are two methods. One method, is to follow the suggestions in the User's Guide. The 2nd method, and perhaps the one recommended for new users, is to match the angle that is currently on the knife. This is done by marking the edge with a Sharpie, or other marker, making a light pass with a fine stone and adjusting the angle until the stone removes the marker from the majority of the bevel. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=69:how-to-find-your-angle&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=89 How to Find your Angle]. By matching the angle that is on the knife, you can concentrate on the sharpening process, and achieve a sharp knife without spending a lot of time (and maybe becoming a little frustrated).

== Sharpening ==

Sharpening is pretty straightforward. Begin on one side at the heel (back) of the knife, with the stone as low as it will go. Using light pressure, move the stone down the edge, at the same time going up the rod. Stop as you reach the tip. Be careful not to rotate the stone around the tip or you can grind it off. Go slow... speed comes with experience. It doesn't take long to learn the technique and pick up the pace, it will take longer to "unlearn" a wrong technique.

After learning the above, the second technique is for setting a bevel on a very dull knife, lowering the angle, or fixing some minor damage. This technique is "scrubbing" the stone, (usually a coarse stone), up and down as you move the stone down the edge. Again, start slow, use light pressure, and pay attention... you can remove metal faster than you realize.

=== Things to watch for during sharpening ===

Some additional points to watch for during sharpening include:

- Look at what's happening on the knife. Make sure metal is being removed where you want, and not being removed where you don't.

- Don't set too low of an angle. Rare, but make sure the stones aren't contacting the clamp or screws.

- Wipe the blade between stones, and especially between strops, so that you don't cross contaminate them.

== My knife isn't as sharp as I thought... ==

Some users, after sharpening a couple of knives, don't get the results they expect, especially after watching a few videos where other users are getting shaving or "hair whittling" edges. There are a few reasons for this.

- Break-in of the diamond stones. The diamond stones, when new, are a bit more aggressive than their actual rating. As they're used, they settle in, and perform closer to their rating.

- Not sharpening all the way to the edge, is another common mistake. There is a misconception in sharpening, that if X number of strokes are applied, the knife will be sharp. One way to tell if you've reached the edge is to create a burr. A burr is a small piece of metal that folds over when the edge is reached. You can see an example here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70:drawing-a-burr-with-the-wicked-edge-knife-sharpener&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=90 Creating a burr]. The easiest way to know you've reached the edge, ties into marking the edge with a Sharpie marker... when you've removed the marker all the way to the edge, chances are you've reached it.

- Too much pressure. Another technique to pay attention to, is how much pressure is applied. Lighter is better, and its often lighter than you think. It doesn't take much for the diamond stones, ceramics or strops to do their work.

Here's an excellent quote from Geocyclist:

''DO NOT be disappointed with your first or 5th knife. A.) It takes 5 - 10 or so knives to break in the diamond stones. The first knife will probably not blow your mind. B.) Your technique will improve. It took me to about my 7th knife to finally say I had a Wicked sharp edge, with mirror polish, even bevels, etc.. My first two knives I was worried I had wasted my money. By knife #5 I wasn't worried any more about if I had wasted my money on the WE. Your first two knives or so should be ones you don't care much about or worry about messing up.'' [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=2&id=8628&Itemid=63#8637 (Reference)]

- Check this page, [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=118:i-just-got-my-wicked-edge-and-sharpened-my-first-knife-its-not-as-sharp-as-i-thought-it-would-be-whats-going-wrong&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 My knife isn't as sharp as I thought...] for more information.

== Additional tips ==

A [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=71:basic-knife-sharpening-instructions&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=88 Basic Instructions] page for using the Wicked Edge

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=31&Itemid=75 Wicked Edge FAQ]

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=listcat&Itemid=64 Wicked Edge Forum]. Here you'll find many members, both new and experienced, ready to help with any questions you might have. Join today!

Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge

2012-12-23T17:20:49Z

Cbwx34: /* My knife isn't as sharp as I thought... */

This page is a guide for the new user in setting up and using the Wicked Edge. It provides more detail as well as links to other pages of interest.

== Setup ==

Make sure you have all the parts, and the Wicked Edge is correctly assembled.

A pdf page with a packing list, and setup instructions can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/files/Pro-Pack%20II%20Assembly%20-%20Web.pdf Pro Pack II Assembly]. (It also contains a part list for the Pro Pack I and II).

=== Additional Setup Tips ===

While not necessary, consider lightly sanding the bottom screw of the clamp. This screw pushes against the opposite clamp, and if it has any rough edges, can dig into the clamp. (Note: this does not cause any sharpening issues... more of a cosmetic issue).

== Clamping the Knife ==

Most knives clamp without issue. Set the depth using either the upper or lower holes on the clamp. The angles are calibrated for a knife that extends 5/8" (15.875mm) above the clamp. Insert the depth key with the horizontal alignment guide ruler at the appropriate height. Consider taping the spine of the knife, especially when learning, so that, if the knife slips in the clamp, it won't scratch the sides.

You also need to set the knife so that the amount of metal removed as you approach the tip is consistent with the rest of the bevel. To do this, the knife is adjusted horizontally, (changing the distance from the clamp to the tip). This can be done by marking the edge with a Sharpie (see "Setting the Angle" section), and adjusting the knife so the marker is removed along the entire bevel, or center of the bevel, as you approach the tip. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=91:finding-the-sweet-spot-positioning-your-knife-from-front-to-back&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=81 Positioning your Knife Front to Back].

Once you have the knife properly positioned, you'll want to record your settings for future reference. This is one of the key concepts of the Wicked Edge... the ability to quickly replicate your previous work, so you can quickly touch up a knife without having to grind in a new edge every time.

There is a [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_joodb&view=catalog&Itemid=94 Knife Database] that other users contribute to, with the settings they've used on a particular knife. A good reference to check to see what others are doing. (And when you're done, add your results to it.)

One knife that some users have trouble with, is the "Full Flat Grind" (FFG), which is a knife that tapers from spine to tip. If you pay attention, you can clamp the blade by insuring that it stays vertical as you tighten the screws. Additionally, you can use a small piece of foam tape on the clamps, or use a thin piece of leather or moleskin wrapped around the spine where it is clamped. Additional tips can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78:can-the-wicked-edge-sharpen-fully-flat-ground-blades&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 Sharpening a Fully Flat Ground Blade].

== Setting the Angle ==

Determining the angle to sharpen at, is one of the most asked questions. When starting, there are two methods. One method, is to follow the suggestions in the User's Guide. The 2nd method, and perhaps the one recommended for new users, is to match the angle that is currently on the knife. This is done by marking the edge with a Sharpie, or other marker, making a light pass with a fine stone and adjusting the angle until the stone removes the marker from the majority of the bevel. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=69:how-to-find-your-angle&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=89 How to Find your Angle]. By matching the angle that is on the knife, you can concentrate on the sharpening process, and achieve a sharp knife without spending a lot of time (and maybe becoming a little frustrated).

== Sharpening ==

Sharpening is pretty straightforward. Begin on one side at the heel (back) of the knife, with the stone as low as it will go. Using light pressure, move the stone down the edge, at the same time going up the rod. Stop as you reach the tip. Be careful not to rotate the stone around the tip or you can grind it off. Go slow... speed comes with experience. It doesn't take long to learn the technique and pick up the pace, it will take longer to "unlearn" a wrong technique.

After learning the above, the second technique is for setting a bevel on a very dull knife, lowering the angle, or fixing some minor damage. This technique is "scrubbing" the stone, (usually a coarse stone), up and down as you move the stone down the edge. Again, start slow, use light pressure, and pay attention... you can remove metal faster than you realize.

=== Things to watch for during sharpening ===

Some additional points to watch for during sharpening include:

- Look at what's happening on the knife. Make sure metal is being removed where you want, and not being removed where you don't.

- Don't set too low of an angle. Rare, but make sure the stones aren't contacting the clamp or screws.

- Wipe the blade between stones, and especially between strops, so that you don't cross contaminate them.

== My knife isn't as sharp as I thought... ==

Some users, after sharpening a couple of knives, don't get the results they expect, especially after watching a few videos where other users are getting shaving or "hair whittling" edges. There are a few reasons for this.

- Break-in of the diamond stones. The diamond stones, when new, are a bit more aggressive than their actual rating. As they're used, they settle in, and perform closer to their rating.

- Not sharpening all the way to the edge, is another common mistake. There is a misconception in sharpening, that if X number of strokes are applied, the knife will be sharp. One way to tell if you've reached the edge is to create a burr. A burr is a small piece of metal that folds over when the edge is reached. You can see an example here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70:drawing-a-burr-with-the-wicked-edge-knife-sharpener&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=90 Creating a burr]. The easiest way to know you've reached the edge, ties into marking the edge with a Sharpie marker... when you've removed the marker all the way to the edge, chances are you've reached it.

- Too much pressure. Another technique to pay attention to, is how much pressure is applied. Lighter is better, and its often lighter than you think. It doesn't take much for the diamond stones, ceramics or strops to do their work.

- Check this page, [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=118:i-just-got-my-wicked-edge-and-sharpened-my-first-knife-its-not-as-sharp-as-i-thought-it-would-be-whats-going-wrong&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 My knife isn't as sharp as I thought...] for more information.

== Additional tips ==

A [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=71:basic-knife-sharpening-instructions&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=88 Basic Instructions] page for using the Wicked Edge

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=31&Itemid=75 Wicked Edge FAQ]

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=listcat&Itemid=64 Wicked Edge Forum]. Here you'll find many members, both new and experienced, ready to help with any questions you might have. Join today!

Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge

2012-12-23T17:18:26Z

Cbwx34: /* Additional tips */

This page is a guide for the new user in setting up and using the Wicked Edge. It provides more detail as well as links to other pages of interest.

== Setup ==

Make sure you have all the parts, and the Wicked Edge is correctly assembled.

A pdf page with a packing list, and setup instructions can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/files/Pro-Pack%20II%20Assembly%20-%20Web.pdf Pro Pack II Assembly]. (It also contains a part list for the Pro Pack I and II).

=== Additional Setup Tips ===

While not necessary, consider lightly sanding the bottom screw of the clamp. This screw pushes against the opposite clamp, and if it has any rough edges, can dig into the clamp. (Note: this does not cause any sharpening issues... more of a cosmetic issue).

== Clamping the Knife ==

Most knives clamp without issue. Set the depth using either the upper or lower holes on the clamp. The angles are calibrated for a knife that extends 5/8" (15.875mm) above the clamp. Insert the depth key with the horizontal alignment guide ruler at the appropriate height. Consider taping the spine of the knife, especially when learning, so that, if the knife slips in the clamp, it won't scratch the sides.

You also need to set the knife so that the amount of metal removed as you approach the tip is consistent with the rest of the bevel. To do this, the knife is adjusted horizontally, (changing the distance from the clamp to the tip). This can be done by marking the edge with a Sharpie (see "Setting the Angle" section), and adjusting the knife so the marker is removed along the entire bevel, or center of the bevel, as you approach the tip. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=91:finding-the-sweet-spot-positioning-your-knife-from-front-to-back&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=81 Positioning your Knife Front to Back].

Once you have the knife properly positioned, you'll want to record your settings for future reference. This is one of the key concepts of the Wicked Edge... the ability to quickly replicate your previous work, so you can quickly touch up a knife without having to grind in a new edge every time.

There is a [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_joodb&view=catalog&Itemid=94 Knife Database] that other users contribute to, with the settings they've used on a particular knife. A good reference to check to see what others are doing. (And when you're done, add your results to it.)

One knife that some users have trouble with, is the "Full Flat Grind" (FFG), which is a knife that tapers from spine to tip. If you pay attention, you can clamp the blade by insuring that it stays vertical as you tighten the screws. Additionally, you can use a small piece of foam tape on the clamps, or use a thin piece of leather or moleskin wrapped around the spine where it is clamped. Additional tips can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78:can-the-wicked-edge-sharpen-fully-flat-ground-blades&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 Sharpening a Fully Flat Ground Blade].

== Setting the Angle ==

Determining the angle to sharpen at, is one of the most asked questions. When starting, there are two methods. One method, is to follow the suggestions in the User's Guide. The 2nd method, and perhaps the one recommended for new users, is to match the angle that is currently on the knife. This is done by marking the edge with a Sharpie, or other marker, making a light pass with a fine stone and adjusting the angle until the stone removes the marker from the majority of the bevel. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=69:how-to-find-your-angle&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=89 How to Find your Angle]. By matching the angle that is on the knife, you can concentrate on the sharpening process, and achieve a sharp knife without spending a lot of time (and maybe becoming a little frustrated).

== Sharpening ==

Sharpening is pretty straightforward. Begin on one side at the heel (back) of the knife, with the stone as low as it will go. Using light pressure, move the stone down the edge, at the same time going up the rod. Stop as you reach the tip. Be careful not to rotate the stone around the tip or you can grind it off. Go slow... speed comes with experience. It doesn't take long to learn the technique and pick up the pace, it will take longer to "unlearn" a wrong technique.

After learning the above, the second technique is for setting a bevel on a very dull knife, lowering the angle, or fixing some minor damage. This technique is "scrubbing" the stone, (usually a coarse stone), up and down as you move the stone down the edge. Again, start slow, use light pressure, and pay attention... you can remove metal faster than you realize.

=== Things to watch for during sharpening ===

Some additional points to watch for during sharpening include:

- Look at what's happening on the knife. Make sure metal is being removed where you want, and not being removed where you don't.

- Don't set too low of an angle. Rare, but make sure the stones aren't contacting the clamp or screws.

- Wipe the blade between stones, and especially between strops, so that you don't cross contaminate them.

== My knife isn't as sharp as I thought... ==

Some users, after sharpening a couple of knives, don't get the results they expect, especially after watching a few videos where other users are getting shaving or "hair whittling" edges. There are a few reasons for this.

- Break-in of the diamond stones. The diamond stones, when new, are a bit more aggressive than their actual rating. As they're used, they settle in, and perform closer to their rating.

- Not sharpening all the way to the edge, is another common mistake. There is a misconception in sharpening, that if X number of strokes are applied, the knife will be sharp. One way to tell if you've reached the edge is to create a burr. A burr is a small piece of metal that folds over when the edge is reached. You can see an example here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70:drawing-a-burr-with-the-wicked-edge-knife-sharpener&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=90 Creating a burr]. The easiest way to know you've reached the edge, ties into marking the edge with a Sharpie marker... when you've removed the marker all the way to the edge, chances are you've reached it.

- Too much pressure. Another technique to pay attention to, is how much pressure is applied. Lighter is better, and its often lighter than you think. It doesn't take much for the diamond stones, ceramics or strops to do their work.

== Additional tips ==

A [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=71:basic-knife-sharpening-instructions&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=88 Basic Instructions] page for using the Wicked Edge

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=31&Itemid=75 Wicked Edge FAQ]

The [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=listcat&Itemid=64 Wicked Edge Forum]. Here you'll find many members, both new and experienced, ready to help with any questions you might have. Join today!

Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge

2012-12-23T17:06:30Z

Cbwx34:

This page is a guide for the new user in setting up and using the Wicked Edge. It provides more detail as well as links to other pages of interest.

== Setup ==

Make sure you have all the parts, and the Wicked Edge is correctly assembled.

A pdf page with a packing list, and setup instructions can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/files/Pro-Pack%20II%20Assembly%20-%20Web.pdf Pro Pack II Assembly]. (It also contains a part list for the Pro Pack I and II).

=== Additional Setup Tips ===

While not necessary, consider lightly sanding the bottom screw of the clamp. This screw pushes against the opposite clamp, and if it has any rough edges, can dig into the clamp. (Note: this does not cause any sharpening issues... more of a cosmetic issue).

== Clamping the Knife ==

Most knives clamp without issue. Set the depth using either the upper or lower holes on the clamp. The angles are calibrated for a knife that extends 5/8" (15.875mm) above the clamp. Insert the depth key with the horizontal alignment guide ruler at the appropriate height. Consider taping the spine of the knife, especially when learning, so that, if the knife slips in the clamp, it won't scratch the sides.

You also need to set the knife so that the amount of metal removed as you approach the tip is consistent with the rest of the bevel. To do this, the knife is adjusted horizontally, (changing the distance from the clamp to the tip). This can be done by marking the edge with a Sharpie (see "Setting the Angle" section), and adjusting the knife so the marker is removed along the entire bevel, or center of the bevel, as you approach the tip. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=91:finding-the-sweet-spot-positioning-your-knife-from-front-to-back&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=81 Positioning your Knife Front to Back].

Once you have the knife properly positioned, you'll want to record your settings for future reference. This is one of the key concepts of the Wicked Edge... the ability to quickly replicate your previous work, so you can quickly touch up a knife without having to grind in a new edge every time.

There is a [http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_joodb&view=catalog&Itemid=94 Knife Database] that other users contribute to, with the settings they've used on a particular knife. A good reference to check to see what others are doing. (And when you're done, add your results to it.)

One knife that some users have trouble with, is the "Full Flat Grind" (FFG), which is a knife that tapers from spine to tip. If you pay attention, you can clamp the blade by insuring that it stays vertical as you tighten the screws. Additionally, you can use a small piece of foam tape on the clamps, or use a thin piece of leather or moleskin wrapped around the spine where it is clamped. Additional tips can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=78:can-the-wicked-edge-sharpen-fully-flat-ground-blades&catid=31:general&Itemid=46 Sharpening a Fully Flat Ground Blade].

== Setting the Angle ==

Determining the angle to sharpen at, is one of the most asked questions. When starting, there are two methods. One method, is to follow the suggestions in the User's Guide. The 2nd method, and perhaps the one recommended for new users, is to match the angle that is currently on the knife. This is done by marking the edge with a Sharpie, or other marker, making a light pass with a fine stone and adjusting the angle until the stone removes the marker from the majority of the bevel. A description of this method can be found here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=69:how-to-find-your-angle&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=89 How to Find your Angle]. By matching the angle that is on the knife, you can concentrate on the sharpening process, and achieve a sharp knife without spending a lot of time (and maybe becoming a little frustrated).

== Sharpening ==

Sharpening is pretty straightforward. Begin on one side at the heel (back) of the knife, with the stone as low as it will go. Using light pressure, move the stone down the edge, at the same time going up the rod. Stop as you reach the tip. Be careful not to rotate the stone around the tip or you can grind it off. Go slow... speed comes with experience. It doesn't take long to learn the technique and pick up the pace, it will take longer to "unlearn" a wrong technique.

After learning the above, the second technique is for setting a bevel on a very dull knife, lowering the angle, or fixing some minor damage. This technique is "scrubbing" the stone, (usually a coarse stone), up and down as you move the stone down the edge. Again, start slow, use light pressure, and pay attention... you can remove metal faster than you realize.

=== Things to watch for during sharpening ===

Some additional points to watch for during sharpening include:

- Look at what's happening on the knife. Make sure metal is being removed where you want, and not being removed where you don't.

- Don't set too low of an angle. Rare, but make sure the stones aren't contacting the clamp or screws.

- Wipe the blade between stones, and especially between strops, so that you don't cross contaminate them.

== My knife isn't as sharp as I thought... ==

Some users, after sharpening a couple of knives, don't get the results they expect, especially after watching a few videos where other users are getting shaving or "hair whittling" edges. There are a few reasons for this.

- Break-in of the diamond stones. The diamond stones, when new, are a bit more aggressive than their actual rating. As they're used, they settle in, and perform closer to their rating.

- Not sharpening all the way to the edge, is another common mistake. There is a misconception in sharpening, that if X number of strokes are applied, the knife will be sharp. One way to tell if you've reached the edge is to create a burr. A burr is a small piece of metal that folds over when the edge is reached. You can see an example here: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70:drawing-a-burr-with-the-wicked-edge-knife-sharpener&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=90 Creating a burr]. The easiest way to know you've reached the edge, ties into marking the edge with a Sharpie marker... when you've removed the marker all the way to the edge, chances are you've reached it.

- Too much pressure. Another technique to pay attention to, is how much pressure is applied. Lighter is better, and its often lighter than you think. It doesn't take much for the diamond stones, ceramics or strops to do their work.

== Additional tips ==

A page with Basic Instructions for using the Wicked Edge: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=71:basic-knife-sharpening-instructions&catid=38:instructions&Itemid=88 Basic Instructions]

The Wicked Edge FAQ page: [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&id=31&Itemid=75 Wicked Edge FAQ

The Wicked Edge Forum [http://www.wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&view=listcat&Itemid=64 Wicked Edge Forum]]. Here you'll find many members, both new and experienced, ready to help with any questions you might have.

Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge

2012-12-21T23:48:12Z

Cbwx34:

Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge

2012-12-21T23:43:38Z

Cbwx34: /* Sharpening */

Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge

2012-12-21T19:28:16Z

Cbwx34:

Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge

2012-12-21T18:00:50Z

Cbwx34:

Main Page

2012-12-21T17:59:17Z

Cbwx34: /* New User Info */

= Index to the Wicked Edge Wiki =

== New User Info ==

[[Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge]]

[[Wicked Edge New User Info]]

== Abrasives ==

[[Abrasives Type and Use]]

[[Use of Waterstones by Philip Pasteur]]

[[Stones and Strops]]

== Sharpening ==

[[Glossary of Sharpening Terms]]

[[Testing for Sharpness]]

[[Theories of Sharpening]]

[[Dihedral Angles in Knife Sharpening by Anthony Yan]]

== Steel ==

[[Types of Steel]]

== Wicked Edge Sharpeners ==

[[Wicked Edge Field and Sport Model]]

== Wicked Edge References ==

[[Wicked Edge Forum Links]]

[[Wicked Edge Videos]]

----
My goal for the Wiki is simple - to create a place where our community can build a resource that is a rich source of information on everything knife, and giving some of our best conversations a home there is a really good fit. I eventually want to have a big knife and sharpening glossary, a steel database and as many articles geared toward sharpening as we can manage.

[http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=3&id=6135&limit=10&limitstart=20&Itemid=63#6220 Quote from Clay, Owner of the Wicked Edge]

Beginners Guide to the Wicked Edge

2012-12-21T17:58:06Z

Cbwx34: Created page with "This page is a guide for the new user in setting up and using the Wicked Edge. It provides more detail as well as links to other pages of interest. == Setup == Make sure y..."

Main Page

2012-11-18T00:22:10Z

Cbwx34: /* Sharpening */

= Index to the Wicked Edge Wiki =

== New User Info ==

[[Wicked Edge New User Info]]

== Abrasives ==

[[Abrasives Type and Use]]

[[Use of Waterstones by Philip Pasteur]]

[[Stones and Strops]]

== Sharpening ==

[[Glossary of Sharpening Terms]]

[[Testing for Sharpness]]

[[Theories of Sharpening]]

[[Dihedral Angles in Knife Sharpening by Anthony Yan]]

== Steel ==

[[Types of Steel]]

== Wicked Edge Sharpeners ==

[[Wicked Edge Field and Sport Model]]

== Wicked Edge References ==

[[Wicked Edge Forum Links]]

[[Wicked Edge Videos]]

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My goal for the Wiki is simple - to create a place where our community can build a resource that is a rich source of information on everything knife, and giving some of our best conversations a home there is a really good fit. I eventually want to have a big knife and sharpening glossary, a steel database and as many articles geared toward sharpening as we can manage.

[http://wickededgeusa.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&func=view&catid=3&id=6135&limit=10&limitstart=20&Itemid=63#6220 Quote from Clay, Owner of the Wicked Edge]

Dihedral Angles in Knife Sharpening by Anthony Yan

2012-11-17T21:43:35Z

Cbwx34: Changed protection level for "Dihedral Angles in Knife Sharpening by Anthony Yan" ([edit=sysop] (indefinite) [move=sysop] (indefinite)) [cascading]

Hi Everyone,

Very often, I encounter people who mistakenly think that a guided-rod set-up cannot sharpen a perfect V-edge. This subject of constant knife angles and pivoting-rod sharpeners always seems to come up, and there are tons of misconceptions. So I wrote this explanation for another forum, but I thought it would be of interest here. Eventhough, I'm sure that at some level or other, all WEPS fans/users already understand the material here, either intuitively, or mathematically. :)

Below, we will consider two cases: a knife with a circular belly, and a knife with a perfect straight edge. We will show that for these two cases, a guided-rod sharpener that pivots at a point (ie: a spherical rod-end or ball-and-socket joint), will sharpen a perfect V-edge. I won't discuss the circular case for very long; most misconceptions are for when the knife edge is a straight line. However, for edges which are not circular nor straight lines, a pivoting-rod sharpener may not sharpen a perfect V-edge.

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There are two cases where a pivoting-rod sharpener can make an exact and uniform angle along the knife edge.

(1) The first is case of a cone. For the cone, the knife belly is circular, and it's center is lined up through the pivot of the sharpener. In other words, if you take the pivot and project it perpendicularly onto the plane of the knife, it would land on top of the circle's center. Then, in this case, the sharpener will grind a bevel that is a right-circular cone (as opposed to an oblique cone). The angle of the bevel is the angle between the slope of the cone and it's base, and the apex of the cone is at the pivot of the sharpener.
[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cone_(geometry) Cone_(geometry)]

(2) However, there is a second case where the pivoting-rod sharpener will also make an exact and uniform angle. If the knife edge is a straight line (has zero belly), then the pivoting-rod sharpener will make a perfect V-edge. This is a very commonly misunderstood fact about dihedral angles, and has caused endless argument. I'd rather not get into endless arguments, so I will present a mathematical proof and also an example illustration. If any of you still disagree after that, that's fine, but I'm unlikely to continue with the discussion for very long after that. I will respond if you find a valid error in the mathematical proof, or if you have a very carefully and well done demonstration. To challenge the proof below, you will need 3-dimensional geometry at the high-school level (ie: theorems, axioms, about planes and lines, etc.), or if you have had college level linear-algebra and/or vector-calculus, that is more than enough.

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First I'll present a quick illustration. For now, please pretend that the guide-rod is a line (ie: infinitely thin) and that the sharpening stone is also infinitely thin.

In the illustration, I tried to use line-thickness to do some perspective hinting. You can think of the thick black triangle as being the closest object to the viewer. Notice the two green angles; those are the dihedral angle of the knife bevel. Notice that the guide rod positions (red) are [B]all[/B] contained [B]inside[/B] the plane of the knife bevel. Therefore there is no problem in sharpening a perfect V-edge.

[[Image:APwH4.png|200px|thumb|center|Dihedral Angle Example]]

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Second, here is the technical proof.

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Axiom1: Three non-colinear points determine a plane.
Comment: Given three points, no two of which are identical, and which are non-colinear (ie: do not lie in a line), then there is exists a unique plane through those three points.

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Axiom2: Two distinct points determine a line.
Comment: Given two points which are not identical, then there exists a unique line through those two points.

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Axiom3: Two distinct points in a plane determine a line contained in the plane.
Comment: If I pick two different points in the plane, those two points determine a line. That line lies inside the plane.

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Theorem1: A line and a point, which is not on the line, determine a plane. This plane contains the line and the point.
Proof:
Let L be a line.
Let C be a point that does not lie on L.

(Part1): Prove there is a plane P that contains the line L and the point C.
Pick any two distinct points A and B on the line L. The three points A, B, and C are distinct (P cannot be A or B because P is not on the line L). The three points A,B,C determine a unique plane P (Axiom1). The plane P contains the points A,B,C, and the line L (Axiom 1, Axiom3).

(Part2): Prove that the plane P is unique.
Proof by contradiction: Suppose there is a second plane Q, not equal to P, that contains the line L and the point C.
If we can show that Q contains three non-colinear points which also lie in P, then Q and P would have to be the same plane.
Let A and B be distinct points that lie on L, as described above, so that the points A,B,C determine P.

Let Q be a plane different from P, which is also determined by the line L and the point C.
Since Q is determined by L and C, it must contain the point C as we proved in (Part1).
Since Q is determined by L and C, it must contain the line L as we proved in (Part1).
But L contains points A and B.
So Q contains L, and L contains A and B.
Therefore, Q contains A and B.
Therefore, the plane Q contains the points A, B, and C. So Q must be the same plane as P (Axiom1).

Therefore, there is a unique plane P that contains a line L and a point C not on the line.

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Now we will apply Theorem1 to knife sharpening. Suppose our knife has a single edge which is a straight line. For example, maybe we are sharpening a straight razor, or one edge of a wood-chisel. I'll consider two cases, because the first case is much easier to understand, and then I'll look at a second case which is a modification of the first case.

Let L be the line representing the straight edge of the knife.
Let P be the plane which contains one bevel of the knife. Since the knife has a V-edge and has a straight edge, one of it's bevels is perfectly flat (ie: planar).

Simple Case:
Let's set up our sharpener so that the pivot C is in the plane P.
The plane P contains the line L and the point C (Theorem1).

For now, we will pretend our guide-rod is a line (ie: infinitely thin) and that our sharpening stone is also infinitely thin. We'll fix this later, after we understand this case. Let S be the plane which represents the surface of the sharpening stone. This means that S contains the surface of the stone as well as the guide rod itself.

Setup the guide-rod such that:
(1) The guide rod goes through the point C.
(2) The sharpening stone lies on the knife edge.

Because we placed the stone onto the knife, the stone surface, S, contains the knife edge L.

However, the plane S also contains the guide rod, and therefore, plane S contains the point C.

Therefore, the plane S contains the knife edge L, and the pivot points C.
Recall that earlier, that our knife bevel is a plane P which is determined also by the line L and the point C.

By Theorem1, the plane S and the plane P are the same plane (uniqueness proven in Part2 of Theorem1).

Notice that it did not matter where we put the sharpening stone onto the knife edge: the plane of the sharpening stone will be the same as the plane of the knife bevel.

Therefore, the sharpening stone will remain in perfect contact with the bevel of the knife and sharpen a perfect V-edge.

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In the above proof, we assumed that the guide-rod and the sharpening-stone were infinitely thin. The above proof can be modified to account for the thickness of the stone and the radius of the guide-rod. However, it is rather laborious to go through that proof. So instead of a full-blown proof, I will informally describe what happens. Basically, you can put the guide-rod in a plane which is parallel to the plane P, but offset by the thickness of the stone and the radius of the guide rod. Once you do this, the stone can always contact the knife bevel perfectly. If that makes sense to you intuitively, then no point in going through he informal argument below. But if it does not, the below is a brief sketch of what happens.

Basically, we still have the knife-edge as line L and the knife-bevel as plane P.
Let t be the thickness of the sharpening stone.
Let r be the radius of the guide-rod.

Then the distance between the central-axis of the guide rod and the stone surface is d=t+r.

Next, consider a plane Q which is parallel to P, but is a distance d away from the knife edge.

We set-up our sharpener so that the center-axis of the guide rod is always in plane Q.
Claim: We can rotate the sharpening stone around the rod axis until the stone's surface lies in the plane P.
Informal Proof: We have two parallel planes P and Q. In Q we have the center-axis of the guide rod. Let's call the center-axis of the guide rod line J.

Now let me use some 3d geometry from high school: The plane Q contains line J. Let U be a plane that is perpendicular to plane Q and which contains line J. (We can do this, because two distinct planes intersect at a line, and we can adjust the dihedral angle between the two planes until they are perpendicular.) Now the plane U will also intersect plane P at a line K. Since U is perpendicular to plane Q, it is also perpendicular to plane P (because P and Q are parallel). So the line K is parallel to line J and exactly a distance d from it. Therefore, we can rotate the surface of the sharpening stone until it contains the line K (because the stone surface is also d away from line J, the center axis of the guide rod).

[[Image:p3vNSh.png.jpeg|200px|thumb|center|Plane Diagram]]

I won't prove this next bit, but if you can visualize the above, then it is obvious that not only does the stone-surface contain the line K, but because of the way we set it up, the stone surface must also be parallel to plane P. This is because line K is actually the perpendicular projection of the guide-rod onto the plane P, and the guide rod, J, is parallel to P.

Sorry if the above bit is a bit complicated to prove. It is fairly easy to understand intuitively. Basically, if we keep the guide-rod in a plane Q, then the stone can sharpen a plane P which parallel to Q, and which is a distance d away.

The conclusion is, so long as the guide rod is in plane Q, we can get the sharpening stone to perfectly sharpen a bevel in plane P. So all we need to do, is to place the rod-pivot in plane Q, and then sharpen normally.

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Discussion:

So we now know that the following two cases can be handled perfectly by a pivoting-rod system that uses a spherical rod-end (ie: pivots about a single point):

(1) A circular knife belly where the center of the circle is lined-up with the pivot center. That is, if we were to do a perpendicular projection of the pivot onto the plane of the knife, it would land on the center of the circle.

(2) A knife with a straight edge that is a line.

In general, though, a knife belly is not perfectly circular, or the pivot is not lined up with the center, etc. So there will be some variation. But the straight part of the knife edge will be fine, and you can put the pivot at a point which is aligned with the center of a best-fit circle to the knife belly. So in practice, it is still pretty good.

Sincerely,
--Lagrangian

"What grit sharpens the mind?"--Zen Sharpening Koan

P.S. I'm wondering if there are other geometries that work, but I haven't figured out the mathematics yet.

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Dihedral Angles in Knife Sharpening by Anthony Yan

2012-11-17T21:42:50Z

Cbwx34:

Use of Waterstones by Philip Pasteur

2012-11-17T21:41:58Z

Cbwx34:

Ok lets start from scratch here.
The concept was to try to answer the question "Why Waterstones"
I described the knife and the steel above as well as my methodology. To recap, I had sharpened this knife before going through all of the Diamonds to 1000 (I did not use the 50 and 80 grit, started with the 100 grit plates). Then I had run through the four ceramic stones and stropped with i micron on WEPS leather. I liked the edge just fine, but as I will be displaying this knife I wanted a very reflective edge. I went back to the 600 grit diamonds with 50 stroke and up through the 1000 grit diamonds. Then I started with the ceramics. I did about 75 strokes trailing edge, 50 or so leading edge, and finished with about 25 0r so trailing edge strokes at each grade.

(Edit: I did run the Ceramics wet per Clay's suggestion. They "feel" better that way. Rather than his sponge idea, I just lightly spritzed them every 25 strokes or so)

I stopped and took 3 or four photos after the ceramics trying to cover the entire blade. I did this after each grit. After the ceramics, I went back to the 1000 grit Chosera stones, then 2K, 3K, 5K, 10K and finally the 12K Naniwa Superstones. I tried to do the same number of strokes at each grit. I then went to strops at 1 micron and 0.5 microns on leather, 0.125 CBN and 0.1 diamond on kangaroo and finally 0.050 and 0.025 on nanocloth. I actually must have some contamination on my strops. There were more scratches after the 1 and 0.5 micron on leather than after the 12K stone. Somewhere along the line I got some bigger scratches while using the 'Roo and nanocloth. I am not even going to post those photos because they have nothing to do with waterstones...

Now, I know that these are not perfect. I definitely need to work on the camera work. Any and all comments to help me get better are welcome.

I think it is pretty clear, even with the rough camera work and magnification levels that there is a definite difference in the visible scratches after running through the waterstone progression. What is not apparent from these photos is the huge difference in the reflectivity of the bevel. I tried to take pics, but the camera has a hard time teasing out the differences, at least at my skill level. I could take a photo after the ceramics that showed phone book text pretty clearly reflected from the edge. After 12K the difference is pretty amazing to the eye, now you start to see the irregularities in the text. I could not make the camera show this. Also, with the knife in the vice, I would turn the light on overhead, and the eyes were immediately drawn to the edge due to the glinting and multiple reflections.

You need to see it to believe it. If you do, you will start to question it when some talk about using their Lansky with a rough 2K grit to make a real mirror edge.. or at least try to get some kind of definition of what that means to them... or how to measure it.

Anyway, enjoy and comment away.

[[image:ceramicsmag1.jpg|200px|thumb|center|After the Diamonds and Ceramics]]

[[image:Chos 1Kmag.jpg|200px|thumb|center|Chosera 1K]]

[[image:Chosera2K.jpg|200px|thumb|center|Chosera 2K]]

[[image:Chosera3K 1.jpg|200px|thumb|center|Chosera 3K]]

[[image:Chosera5K 1.jpg|200px|thumb|center|Chosera 5K]]

[[image:Chosera10Ktip1-1.jpg|200px|thumb|center|Chosera 10K]]

[[image:Naniwa12Ktip.jpg|200px|thumb|center|Naniwa 12K]]

There has been some claims that tthe Waterstones are messy in use. I suppose that this is relative. Compared to the diamonds or Ceramics, perhaps that is true. But maybe it is just a different kind of mess. I get quite a bit of metal dust/shavings when using the Diamonds this has to be cleaned up and the arm joints protected from its abrasiveness. The ceramics take regular cleaning if you want them to look and work as new. This involves significant time, scrub brushes and abrasive cleaners.

With the Choseras, SuperStones or Shaptons, I do use water. The Choseras get a 10 minute soak at least. The SS I usually do the same, even though they are listed as splash and go. I just like the way the feel better after a soak. I spritz the shaptons ever 15 strokes or so and wipe them off to keep them as cleans as possible. This maintains their precision.
g
I spritz the Choseras and SS abot every 25 strokes and spread the mud produced evenly over the stone. I find this maximizes their polishing properties. On the coarser Choseras, say up to 1K, when I pull them out of their soak, I rub them against each other until I develop some decent amount of slurry.

Anyway, the picture below is right after I used the 2K Choseras for around 150 strokes per side. You can see the "mess" produced. I don't find it much worse than the steel dust and deal with it in the same way, a quick wipe with a damp sponge, and everything is as good as new...

[[image:Chosera2Kreflect.jpg|200px|thumb|center|Area "mess" after 2K Chosera]]

So, using the water stones involves a bit more work. I don't use them for every knife. Probably only 20% of the knives that I sharpen. At this level I am sharpening for fun and to tease that final bit of reflectivity out of each edge. I don't have anything else that will do what my water stones will, so to me, in these situations, it is more than worth the small amount of extra effort to get there.

This is all done in the pursuit of the perfect edge, after all.

Phil

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