Will do. Thanks Phil!

PhilipPasteur wrote:

I'm glad you brought this up. I was wondering at what point should the leather be changed out? I have the 5/3.5 and the 1/.5 strops and a couple of them are very dirty (black in color). Should I continue to add more diamond past to them?

Thanks!

Thanks Clay!

wickededge wrote:

Thanks Phil.

I really appreciate your input on this and I know exactly what you're talking about. That's a great idea to turn the bar around and file down the screws and I will definately try it out.

Thanks again,
Jim

[quote="PhilipPasteur" post=4839]Jim,
Just a thought on using the machines dimples on the base (angle) bar. I think if you check the forume you will find that many do not use them at all. In my case I reversed the bar so the smooth side is facing me. I filed the screws used to tighten the slider flat on the ends. They tighten up and stay tight ( no bracket movement). In addition, doing this allows for fractional degree settings much more easily. I know that the angle adjuster on the new arms allows this sort of fine adjustment, but has its limitations as to the amount you can adjust. I use lots of different stones with widely varying thicknesses. Sometimes, trying to set the slider adjustment using an indent just does not give enough travel to allow me to adjust for the difference stones. Using the smooth side I can set a base setting that allows me to not have to move the main slider again, but still accomodate all of my stones using just the fine angle adjustment feature. I am just trying to point out that you do not have to be dependent on using the indents. In some cases, doing so can actually be a liability, rather than an advantage. Just flattening the screws and maybe putting a little purple locktite on the screws will give you plenty of security against the adjustment moving.

Phil

[quote="JimMitchell" post=4825]

Thanks Clay. I am looking forward to receiving one of the longer angle bars. Do you have an ETA on them? Once I receive it, I will take more photos and report the results back to you.

I re-calibrated my angle cube and used a square to confirm it is reading accurately. I really believe the longer angle bar will take care of the issue. If you can have the indents along the entire side of the angle bar to allow for a wide range of angles, that would be great. It will also help keep the arm brackets securely in place.

Thanks again,
Jim

wickededge wrote:

Billabong wrote:


Thanks Billabong. I thought I noticed a difference in the angle bar but wasn't sure. I'm sure the issue will be resolved with a longer angle bar and several more indents (angle holes for the screws).

Clay,

Take a look at the photo comparison Billabong posted. There seems to be a difference in your arm brackets and mine. It appears that yours are longer on the bottom, allowing for wider angles. I'm sure this is where the difference in angles is coming from.

Was the upgrade I received last week was supposed to have the longer brackets as shown in your photos?

I think either replacing the brackets or making a longer angle bar would solve the problem. I hesitate to go out beyond the small indents on the angle bar because the bracket screws don't feel like they're "biting" into the aluminum bar and could easily become loose. Whereas, with the indents, the bracket screws feel very secure and the brackets don't loosen up as easy.

Have you thought about making a longer angle bar with indents along the entire side to accommodate a wider range of angles as well as keeping the bracket screws tight and secure?

I'd be happy to use the same angle brackets that you're using and/or try a longer angle bar.

Thank you.

Jim

Billabong wrote:


Thank you Billabong! Those pictures show a noticeable difference in the brackets and that is most likely where the shortage is coming from. Thanks again for picking up on that and posting!

Jim

Clay,

I couldn't get the photos to load in the post so I have attached a link that will hopefully work. The 23.70 degree angle is at a setting of 30 degrees on the bar. The 26.65 degree angle is with the collar all the way out to the end of the bar.

picasaweb.google.com/1057453382584261748...v1sRgCK2Lg8rG88K9FQ#

Clay,

Thank you checking your set up and sending the photos. I re-calibrated my angle cube following the step by step directions that came with it in the box. The re-calibration worked great; however, my readings on the angle cube are still off by quite a bit.

Here is a photo of my Kershaw Needs Work using the lower set of alignment holes at a setting of 30 degrees.

[attachment:1]DSC_0005-001.JPG[/attachment]

Here is a photo of my Kershaw Needs Work using the lower set of alignment holes with the collar moved out to the end of the bar.

[attachment:2]DSC_0003-001.JPG[/attachment]

I'm confused as to why the reading on my angle cube are so far off from the readings you're obtaining on your angle cube. Maybe you can tell, by looking at my photos, if I'm doing something wrong.

Thank you for all of your assistance in resolving this issue.

Jim

I was sharpening my Strider SNG and put a 22 degree angle on each side of the edge. Then, since I already had the knife clamped down in the vice, I used the Strider to test how wide of an angle I could get with the new kit. I was able to make the angle a little wider by using the lower depth key holes in the vice jaws. I got 25.70 degrees on the angle cube at the widest point (where there are no indentations in the arm bar).

That would be great if you could check your set up for me. I'm interested in hearing how wide you can get your angle at the widest point on each side.

Thanks again Clay.

Jim

[quote="wickededge" post=4748]I'll double check it tomorrow, but I think I can get much wider than what you're reporting. How wide of a knife are you using?

[quote="JimMitchell" post=4744]

Clay,

What is the highest angle, for each side, your able to obtain with the riser block installed? If I use the indents on the arm bar, the highest angel I can get is approximately 21.90 degrees. If I go all the way to the end of the arm bar, where there are no indents, the hightest angle I can get is approximately 25 degrees. I would like to be able to obtain the same angles that I used to be able to obtain without the riser block. Is that possible? Do you think we may need to use a longer arm bar?

Thanks,
Jim

Clay,

I just received the upgrade kit a couple of days ago and I absolutely love it. It was very easy to set up and add to my existing WEPS.

I am most impressed with the fact that there is no play at all in the new ball joints and that the arms move back and forth so smoothly. The difference between the new arms and the old arms is amazing. It’s also great to have the capability of making those micro adjustments to find the exact angle you’re looking for on both sides of the edge. Like you said, I will be relying on the angle cube as opposed to what I am used to on the arm bar. I’m sure I’ll find some consistency (difference in degrees) between the angle cube and the arm bar after several more sharpening’s. I’ve only sharpened a couple of knives so far with the upgrade kit and I look forward to many more!

Like I said, I am very impressed with the upgrade kit and highly recommend it to everybody out there who is looking to upgrade their WEPS.

Nice work Clay and thank you for a great product.

Jim



wickededge wrote:

Sounds good Clay. Thank you!

wickededge wrote:

Hello everyone,

I was curious as to what others have found when upgrading their Pro Pack I with the Pro Pack II upgrade (New arms, Riser Block, Micro Adjustment Screws & Angle Cube). When I added the riser block and the new arms, my angle cube reads about 5 degrees less than what is indicated on the arm bars. I'm sure this has to do with the riser block.

Should I completely disregard the angles on the arm bar and stictly use the angle cube from this point forward?

Thank you in advance for your comments.

Jim

cbwx34 wrote:


Great idea! Thanks for sharing.

wickededge wrote:


Thanks Clay. You guys are great and the customer service you provide is second to none so good luck!

In the meantime, I'll be going from the 1000 grit diamond stones to the 1.4 / .6 micro-fine ceramics (15,000 / 30,000) and then on to the stops? I know there is a large gap between the 1000 grit diamond stones and the micro-fine ceramics so I'll definitely be waiting to hear what you decide on the 1200 / 1600 ceramics. If you decide not to re-order those ceramics, could you please recommend the best choice for me to fill that gap?

Thanks again,
Jim

I recently purchased a set of the new micro-fine ceramics at the blade show and have been using the micro-fine ceramics right after the 1000 grit diamond stones. Could someone please remind me of what grit the micro-fine ceramics are?

I wanted to buy the 1200 / 1600 ceramics to use just prior to the micro-fine ceramics; however, I don't see the 1200 / 1600 ceramics listed on the website. I knew there were some issues with them but I thought the issues had been worked out. Are the 1200 / 1600 ceramics still available?

Thank you!

Jim

Hi Robbie,

Welcome to the forum. I'm fairly new to the forum as well and should be receiving my WEPS this week. I've been following and reading the forum for a couple of months now and one thing you will find here is a very professional, knowledgeable and considerate group of people ready to share information and help out in any way possible. This is really a great community to be a part of!

I'm also a subscriber to your YouTube channel and it looks like you had a blast at the Blade Show. I was at the Blade Show as well and had a great time. Next year, I'll have to buy the 3 day pass instead of a 1 day pass.

I had the privilege of meeting Clay and Kay at the show and was able to see the new accessories included in the new Pro Pack II upgrade. I'm sure everyone is looking forward to its release.

Again, welcome to the forum and I'll be looking out for more of your videos!

Regards,
Jim