Just My take here Clay, You Had an idea and you turned it into a reality. I love your product, everyone Ive dealt with on the phone has been pleasant and more importantly said what they would do and then did what they said. I have the up most respect for what you've done. Keep up the Great Work.

This is something I would pay for, I really am looking forward to it and looking at the number of views this thread has.... I'm not the only one.

Hey guys, I know you can buy blank holders, but I can see the point where you want to replace the leather. Is there a source for leather or balsa? I can cut my own but I would like to keep the thickness uniform soooo
Is Has anyone found them?

I know they are hopping through hoops over there, I just call them, keeping in mind time zones, they always pick up and are prompt and plesent. This forum is a great place as well.. email is always an iffie thing in my book. to many things can go wrong.

Only one word comes to mind



COUGH!!

AND ..... WERE OFF

I smell a new logo here... Im not sure which I like better

For the uninitiated thats "Trojan Man"

Now that looks like it has possibilties

This was bothering me as well. In a past life I worked for a German industrial machine manufacturer and still have a calibrated set of jigs we used during the setup of molders. To start with I lied my tilt cube on the set and after cleaning off any shavings it was accurate +- .03 deg between 10 and 45 degrees. The knives I used were a Kershaw 1596 Spec Bump and a Chive.
I cleaned and zeroed the meter between each measurement and choose a 25 degree standard to check my calibration in between as well. I jumped through these hoops so I could remove any doubt in my own mind about the Digital inclinometer aka The Tilt Box.

The shots are of the Spec bump in both the upper and lower setting with min and max angles recorded and the chive in just the upper to see a smaller blade.

If there is a longer arm I want one, if not I’ll make one. But the geometry of the base with the riser is more of an issue on the low side. I don’t see any way around hogging out some metal. Has anyone done this? And what shape did you end up with?

Spec Bump upper max 22.20 upper min 12.55
Spec Bump lower max 23.15 lower min 14.15

Chive max 23.95 min 18.15

I guess I could, as long as Clay doesn't mind. I bought a bag that came to about 1.50 each, you do have to trim them so you should have 3 in case you screw one up.a couple bucks for a padded envelope and postage.
does 7 dollars sound fair?

I do have some extras

They are mini weighing funnls, thay are used in drug labs.

I Got my new arms and I wanted to kept those machined pivots Nice and shinny. Ive seen a lot of ideas from from the people here , washers , aluminum foil , magnets, I came across the mini funnels and an idea came to mind.... what do you think? they don't bind in any direction.

beautiful, What stroping did you take it to (grit) and for how long?

Good deal, I use a piece of MDF with some jewelers rouges now in the same way. Normally I work the edge and knock the burr off with the MDF and refine the edge a bit and one more go at the MDF and I done. I guess what I'm asking is on the WEPS, has anyone gone for that mirror finish on the chisel side of an Emerson CQC 7 or CQC 8? I guess what I'm asking is would you dismount the knife and take it to the flat side in between the progression of grits or every other?

Or is there a better way?

I was wondering how you guys are handling your chisel-ground knives? I'm specifically thinking of some Emerson's I have, Are you just going as low as you can of the flat (ish) side?

Clay, I'm looking forward to your top secret convex scissoror option... Ever since I hinted at this , the wife keeps after me to start up again on her tools. I'm waiting untill you get your new project off the drawing board.

There are a lot of pet groomers out there who's husbands support them by keeping them operational (like me). Im on some of their forums, as are most of the husbands and This will be big in the community . Im sure it will be a slow intrusiontion into that market as most of us (me included) have damaged some of our wifes stuff. The guys who do it for a living really hammer us with the "I told you not to let them touch it" posts

Good advice... I need to make sure he understands, I said it once but I understand, Short of turning it into a letter opener I don't I can hurt it much more. It had a nice convex continuous grind from heel to ha , but I'll never restore that.
I was worried about taking the 50 to the edge, I didn't think of knocking it down and refining it, Thanks.

I was poking around for my digital, only to find out my wife lent it... no photos ... just my shabby descriptive powers. No belt grinders here either, only stones, diamond and natural. I'm going to tackle this with the WES, It will be a chance to test out deferent pressers and stone progression. I have a lot of steel to play with.

OK< I was handed a 8" Tonto blade that looks like some one took a bench grinder to. about 2 inches back they must have been day dreaming and for about say 2 inches, the edge is 1/16 to 1/8 lower than the rest of the blade. In planning this project out, I'm going to have to remove a lot of steel to even it out, but how do you suggest I go about it while 1. knowing when it is truly level and 2, not deepening the gully while passing over or around it?

Package from BSS showed up today as promised.