I convinced mine to swap out the dining room for a pool rooom and bar, and we just eat in the kitchen breakfast nook. My reasoning was why have 2 places to eat, one that we never use, and none for guests to hang out and have fun, and it worked!

They sold out before I got there at the $130 price, but I got a coupon for $140, went to store to check it out, solid as a rock and very nice IMO. I got one a day before my leg surgery, will take six weeks to heal, so I cannot rearrange to put it somewhere, nor build it :/. That said, if you have HF near you, check out the store display, I think it is a steal for that price. You can get the coupon just by joining their email list.

I think this thing is gonna rock for a sharpening/reloading station as it is! But, adding a peg board (or maybe a hutch with more storage, peg board and long tube florescent light) for reloading dies, etc., and it will be even better.

EXCELLENT, thanks, I dunno where, but it is going somewhere. Is there some type of material that you can AB on that I can put on my car/motorcycle tank, etc. and it will be "hardy", i.e. stand up to rain, car wash, etc?

P.S. can we tell somewhere who gave us karma for what? forgive me if I missed it, but I couldn't find where instructions where to do that if there are any or if this is possible or not.

I like the removal personally, to me it removes to ability for hit and runs with no justification. If someone thinks a contribution is negative, they can either move on or comment, not just click a button and leave everyone especially the OP wondering why. Plus it removes negative vibes from the universe, I am all for that .

Yeah they are fantastic work! Do you AB to order, or just a thing for friends? I don't even know what I want airbrushed yet (but what ever it will be on it will be skulls ), but I want you to do it!

Hello, any update on the recall versions of the screws and brackets? I am ready FINALLY to ship my WEP PPII to a friend for review, but I cannot send without the recalled parts, wouldn't be a very good review, the last thing I want to happen :/.

Only found one :/: www.google.com/?tbm=pts#hl=en&tbo=d&...r:%22Clay+A.+Allison

wickededge wrote:

LOL, I was wondering what you meant about me being special, I thought you meant the short bus kind of special. Correct, I meant what I read earlier in this post, I hadn't heard where it was on the list for a while, now I know it is going to be worked on after the holidays, not far away at all!

Billabong wrote:

Ironic, me too, hence y one of my EDCs always has a at least a partial serrated edge (sometimes even a dedicated seat belt cutter depending on what I am carrying).

Billabong wrote:


I thought it was, most of my exposure to other collectors is at BF, and the consensus seemed to be it was weird, if it ain't, that's cool. I am glad that is the consensus is over there cos I get my combos oh so much cheaper in their market place!

Billabong wrote:

LOL, ya, I am one of the weirdos who like the combo knives (although in most cases when I have a choice of one other the other like with a lot of BM's, SOG's, and ZT's, I buy one of each ).

Billabong wrote:

Sure there is, as long as you can keep all the balls in the air (and pick up the ones that you drop every now and then, inevitable, we are all human). If Clay never juggled, based on the story I read about the dev of the WE, it never would have existed in the first place, cos he never would have done the juggling act to fight through the prototyes and issues while developing it while still doing his day job. Juggling can be a double edged sword (pun intended ), but in this case no one really got cut, agreed?

P.S. Also got a NICE update (for me at least) on the serrated edge sharpening accessory, woo hoo!

Billabong wrote:


The original prototype clamp version is probably wishful thinking, but I'll take it... .

WIll do, and it sure better not wobble! If it does hopefully I will be able to reinforce it with l brackets or something, given most of the alternatives (other than building my own, which would definitely wobble ) are twice the $ for just a simple bench with a top that thick.

I will be picking up a couple today or tomorrow, making room now for at least one of them, will let ya know how it works out, although sale is over tomorrow :/. I just saw it last night...

Hi All, in preparation for setting up my sharpening station (and also for a reloading station for my shotgun shell and brass progressives), I have been looking for a quality yet affordable option. After looking around for a while, I have settled on picking up a couple of these while they are on sale for $129.99+tax at Harbor Freight. Solid THICK wood table top with several types of vices build in if needed, nice drawers for storage of knifes to do, stones and strops, etc. They are normally on sale between $140-$145.

www.harborfreight.com/60-inch-workbench-...&utm_source=1023

Video overview:

I have checked it out in store before and you really cannot beat the value IMO, even if you try and build your own I think. Here is a pic. Just wanted to post in case anyone was looking for an option on a good sharpening space.

Billabong wrote:

+1 on the clamp for me.

Given the pressure law, even thumbs on stainless screws against the edge of a thread(even another stainless) can quickly cause enough damage to ream out the aluminum clamp I think.

Another issue, over time as the arm bolt to bracket loosens up, using the set screw to tighten can also potentially move the arm slightly forward or backward depending on where you are hitting the thread, enough to throw off a micro bevel anyway. The clamp would completely prevent that as well.

I haven't used mine yet :/, but looking at it real close pretending I have the 10-32 conical point screws(which makes the problem worse vs. the flat #8-32 I have right now), I cannot imagine that thread damage WON'T happen over time, and not much of it depending on how much micro adjustment is done. Although my real job is IT now adays, before that I had been on working on cars and motorcycles as my real job, then working on submarines while in the USN, and am back to turning wrenches on cars (buying, fixing up, flipping, love doin' it, and good source of extra income, paid for having fun ). Anyway, in 24 yrs of working on mechanical "stuff", I don't recall ever seeing a retention system like this, even on assemblies that are static and not meant to be adjustable (where in those cases typically a sharp set screw is used, or one of many other ways). Most likely because thread damage WOULD be the result, and dissassebly would be a problem every single time requiring re-tapping and die-ing or worse upon reassembly, damaging either or more likely both thread surfaces when the main (not the set) screws are removed, the metal shavings caused by the housing acting as a die on the damaged threads, but its RC hardness most likely nothing near a real die, and those metal shavings would damage the threads of the housing all the way through, and would get worse with every adjustment.

Looking at the brackets, I am going to guess they are CNCed aluminum(?), which makes the issue even worse with stainless steel screws, aluminum is WAY too soft to deal with what I am talking about above, I have learned that the hard way machining aluminum heads and intakes (porting and polishing, planing bottom of slightly warped heads, etc.). Even the smallest shaving or uneven thread on the bolts can destroy the threading in the aluminum heads/intake, so as part of the process, after machining, one must be VERY anal about ensuring that all shavings are cleaned off, and even if using new bolts, using a die on all of the bolts to true the threads before re-installing the intake, heads, or whatever. I learned the hard way to be anal given I have had resize(increase) tap the bolt holes after not being able to torque the heads/intake to spec because the orig threads were destroyed, very easy to do on aluminum .

Looking at this design, I believe that damaging the threads is inevitable with enough pressure applied, which I don't think is avoidable. Polymer tipped would help but not for long against a stainless steel screw, and would definitely be a wear part, and would not take long to wear for those that use the micro adjustment a lot. Putting pressure at a 90 degree angle on threads to secure the arm screw screw is just a bad idea IMHO . Especially if your micro adjustment point has the thumbscrew coming directly in contact with the *edge* of the thread, where given the pressure formula... given that the contact surface area of the arms stainless steel screw is to a point, very little pressure from the stainless thumb set screw would be required to damage the thread on the arm bolt threading. Basically like standing on a 1x4 when it is flat won't hurt your foot, but flipping that 1x4 on its side so that you are standing on the 1" edge WILL hurt given the concentration of same pressure (your weight) on such a small surface area. With a thread on a screw coming to such a fine point, the pressure applied by the thumb set screw is magnified that much more. Ironic all of the crap I learned for engineering in college I never use at work, almost always just at home doing stuff like working on cars (thanks GI BILL ).

Anyway, the clamp below looks perfect, as long as no metal debris (from sharpening would be the most likely suspect I am thinking) falls into the crevice before adjustments are made(or worse the arm is removed from the bracket) which would cause the same problem, but the chances are much less than with the current design I think. I would probably just put some electrical tape over the crevice to prevent that possibility, and use compressed air to clear out the area before removing the arm if I needed to do that.

Another way, and the most common way I have seen things that need to be adjusted like this would be to have nuts and lock washers on both sides of the arm (no clamp in this case, solid bracket again), and use two small ignition wrenches or something like that to loosen them, adjust the arm in or out, then tighten them again. That would be even safer, but it would also not be very user friendly, and you would most likely throw off the adjustment you just made as you were tightening the bolts since the applied torque is on the same plane :/. With enough thought, there is probably another way that is easy to do and safe while ensuring that the adjustment is not thrown off while re-tightening, just cannot think of one better than the clamp idea ATM without making it even more complicated of a part and therefore more expensive . The clamp sounds like the way to go do me.

Just IMHO .

P.S. I have worked with a lot of machine shops as I have moved around over the years for cars, gun smithing, etc. for all kinds of stuff up to custom part fabrication, but I have never had as much fun with any of my 20 some odd years of encounters as you seem to be having with yours .

Billabong wrote:
LOL, Off Topic forums are fun .