This one. www.bladehq.com/item--Brous-Blades-Tactical-Black-Silent--11008

I was thinking I'd seen that you'd done a D2 at 20/side, so I thought I might venture outside my normal
box, which is match what's there.

Email and phone call seem to be the best. Email gives a print copy and make response easier. Phone call brings attention to the concern. They do their best to rectifle the problem.

I have this little neck knife in said steel. Am thinking a primary bevel of 18* , and a secondary of 20*.
Blade is about 2 inches long.

Thinking is a combination scalpel / last resort / survival sort of thing (worst case scenario, only thing you have).

Comments and suggestions please.

Thanks much

Very cool!

Wouldn't a rubbery type compound serve both purposes ?

My preference would be closed ends.
If need be to fit a stone, one or both ends could be "WE-moved" with a sharp knife.

Couldn't resist a possible pun, nor alliteration.

3D printer. Very cool.
I don't think I'd use the covers for stones or Choseras.

Looking forward to getting covers for strops though .

Can't wait to hear the results on your lawn from your WEPS sharpened blades.

Do we have a member directory?

Looking to contact StevePinson.

TIA

Wondering if there are any updates re plastic strop covers?

At one time, there were reports of a "kiln layer" that would flake off, but did not affect the ceramic. It was just some "stuff" left over from making the stone and they were going to add another step to get rid of the left over fluff on the stone.

If I am remembering correctly

Mr Allison,
Would it be possible for you to snap a picture thru the new big loupe and post it?
Much appreciated in advance.
Mike

Wow CB
You've got five 7's under your moniker.
Time to go to Vegas

When you are trying to first form your burr, are you starting on the right side and working till a burr is formed, and doing nothing to the left side?

If so, this may be the problem. This will cause more metal to be removed from the right side. You want to do roughly the same number of strokes per side to keep things even.

Just a thought

Try mounting them higher (above the top holes).

Does your set up have the riser block and new arms, ie pro pack II ?

I think you basically have to put the blade higher in the clamp, and/or back the stone arms out more so they don't hit the clamps.

I think most everyone has scuffed the clamps at some point. I color mine in with black sharpie. I will sometimes put a piece of
Electrical tape on the clamps where I scuff, to give a different feel for when the stones hit it. Most times though, I just
make sure it's not hitting when I set the angle.

Have the EP myself. Have never gone by the markings on the EP guide or WEPS guide, always used the cube. Like Geo says, WEPS is infinitely adjustable too. To keep your EP angle, check with cube, and if you do as Geo suggests, your results should be good.

There is likely a learning curve, but it is doable.

Best wishes

Did you happen to use the angle cube on the EP? Or if you have an angle cube, you could set up your EP according to your written settings, check angle with the cube, use a sharpie , set angle on WEPS to cube, and see what happens.

Just a thought

Hot water worked well. Used a 5 in 1 tool to remove the platen. A bit stouter than a putty knife.

Cbwx-- wanted access to the round recesses in the handle for magnet placement.

Best of luck!