I'm going to try my hand at posting pics but what I'm using now is Velcro on the blank paddles I got from Bob at Oldawan Tools. I simply put the Velcro on the EP aluminum plate and the fuzzy portion of the Velcro on the WE Paddles and it works fine. Only thing I don't like is sometimes the Velcro on the paddles gets we but so far that hasn't been a problem. I'm going to try doubling us some tape to take the place of the Velcro and see how that works. If I wasn't going to use the EP stones on the EP I think I'd simply get a high quality double back tape and attach to the paddles that way. However, I want to use my Shaptons on both machines so I'll experiment with difffernt attachment techniques.
Before I got the paddles I was going to simply make a wooden "paddle" and bore a hole to accept the arm and attach the Shapton stone to that.

I want to be able to change stones on the paddles and not have paddles devoted to one particular stone set. I think with the Choseras changing size with wear/flattening , it would also be easier to adjust for differences using the stop collar and stone rather than having a paddle in the way.

Had a friend working on a prototype paddle made of aluminum, but he was having trouble keeping the bore hole true. I thought a drill press could be used, but he said it was more of a job for a lathe.

Mikedoh wrote:


We're working on something like that here too but it's a ways off. I've tried to bore different handles with the drill press, spent tons of effort on it in the past, and found it nearly impossible to get the hole perfectly straight, centered end to end etc...

You might consider blank paddles with a steel plate and then using magnetic tape on the backings of the stones - that works really well and makes changing the stones very quick and easy.

The way I have it set up it's easy to switch stones just by pulling the stones off the paddles but I purchased extra paddles from Bob in case I really liked the setup (which I do). I measure using the face of the stone against the stop collar and the back of the plastic the stone is velcroed to against the L shaped mounting bracket.. At first I used the whole thickness of the paddle and that didn't work well.
I have a old Shopsmith that will work well to drill out the wood "paddle". Also thought about taking a piece of wood and screwing in a couple of metal loops to run the rod through to use as a paddle. Just would need to make sure the loop was tight to the rod.

The Shopsmith easily converts to a Lathe.

Bill Sutherland wrote:


That is one cool tool!

Yes, it comes in very handy for many things. Best part is you can pick these up used with all the components for around $400-500.

Bill Sutherland wrote:


Where would you find one for a price like that?

My friend was using a lathe in shop area where he works as a machine builder. I'm not certain what was causing the trouble boring the hole, but he was using a lathe.

I was thinking of using some small neo magnets in the blank paddle holes, and was wondering how a flexible magnetic backing would work glued to the aluminum platen.

Check your local Craigslist under "Tools". Guys who have them have a "Love/Hate" relationship with them. They're very expensive but the Table Saw portion is not very big and lots of guys don't like to have to do the short setup from component to component. It only takes a couple of minutes to switch but they like to be able to just walk up to a machine, use it, and then walk over to another machine and use it without having to reset the machine. Example is from Lathe to Drill Press is simply tilting the table and raising the tubes to a verticle position. I have a Bansaw Attachment and a Strip Sander attachment that just lift off when not used. Very simple to attach and they're built like tanks. Take very little room and roll around if need be.

spokane.craigslist.org/tls/3665191346.html in Spokane. Most guys are very negotiable on these things.

Mikedoh wrote:


I think Clay's idea using the metal and magnetic tape is a great idea too.