I think I'm pretty convinced to go ahead and purchase the Pro Kit. I'm sure I'll have lots of learning to do in terms of how to actually use all the stones and what the correct progression and passes are. It looks like there is a very active community here that is very helpful, which was one of the reasons I'm choosing the Wicked Edge. Is there training material out there for learning about getting the best edge and best practices on sharpening with the Wicked Edge. I definitely don't want to spend $400.00+ and use it like a metal grinder and destroy my knives and have to replace them due to my ignorance. Thanks for all y'alls advice.

Okay, for all the reading I've done on the subject, let me make an attempt at answering to see if I've got my facts straight. Anyone that knows better please do chime in and correct anything I'm saying...

To my understanding, the higher the grit level, the finer the edge that's achievable and hence the sharper you can get. In the +1000grit range you can easily cut paper. In the +3000grit range you're encroaching on whittling hair. +8000grit you're in straight razor territory kind of edge, sharpness and mirror finish.

The fringe benefit of the higher grit is the higher the grit, the higher the level of mirror finish.

Again, to my understanding, sharpening steels tend to be equivalent to around 1000grit, so another nice thing about the pro-kit is you can use it for precise touch-ups (as far as higher grit AND edge angle maintenance) in lieu of a steel...Especially useful for Japanese knives with the steeper 15° edges.

Completely correct about the way higher grit stones work IMHO .

Not sure about how sharpening steels compare to stones (they work differently), but you can certainly use a higher grit stone instead of a sharpening steel. I'd be more tempted to use the 1600 grit ceramics or the micro fine ceramics for that purpose, however.

I'd never use a sharpening steel on nice Japanese knives at 15 degrees, though other people may have a different opinions.

Thanks for everyone's advice. I pulled the trigger on the pro kit and got a sweet deal on it . I look forward to testing yalls advice on the sharpening stone progressions and also decided to add the ceramic stones as well since y'all recommended it so highly. Thanks

How did you get a sweet deal on it? I'm looking to buy one in the next couple days too. Thanks!

TheodoreVu I bought it from thesharpenershop and used a coupon I found from a knife sharpening forum coupon code. I'd give out the code but I can't seem to find it in the posts anymore. If I find it I'll happily pass it on to you, but it allowed me to get the Pro Kit for $60 off with free shipping.

Hope to get some help, as well.

The Field and Sport is the same cost as the basic kit.

Any advantage one over the other? Do you think i would eventually miss the finer adjustments of the regular kit?

I do like the arms on the Field and Sport, save for only being able to adjust to 2 degree increments. Is this really an issue?

Also, i am a fairlly new beginner in the knife collecting/using world, getting usable results with the Spyderco sharpener; i also just ordered a strap from the 'Strapman' and look forward to learning the use of the stop.

Any ideas or thoughts or opinions would be very much appreciated!

Thanks.

A short list of pros and cons that differ per system might look like this:

Pros - WE100 Basic Kit
1 degree increments
depth key and alignment guide

Pros - WE102 Field & Sport
Portable
Carrying Case
Does Need a Base

Cons - WE100 Basic Kit
Needs a Base
No Carrying Case

Cons - WE102 Field & Sport
Less Degree Choices (2 degree increments)
No Depth Key or Alignment Guide

I haven't found much difference in angle within a 1 degree range. I doubt anyone would notice a performance issue skipping a single degree. You might not be able to match a factory edge immediately, but if you're within a degree, then re-profiling it should only take a moment.

The Field & Sport doesn't have the depth key, but it does have a ledge on which to rest the spine of the knife, so you do get consistency. It also doesn't have the alignment guide, but while it is helpful, it is not essential unless you're completely OCD

The carrying case/portability of the Field & Sport is very nice though you will need to find a surface to which you can clamp, usually very easy to do.

Bottom line is that if you want extreme precision, then you should go with a system based on the WE100 (either the WE100 itself or the Pro-Pack I or Pro-Pack II.) If you want portability, then you should go with the Field & Sport. Both will give you extremely sharp knives.


ShmuelMandelbaum wrote:

Clay,

If re-profiling is necessary due to the 2 degree increments of the Field & Sport, would the included grits be sufficient/efficient enough
for this or would I end up spending extra for the (very cool) 50 & 80 grit Strops I saw on a jdavis YouTube video.?

Thank you.

The included grits would certainly be sufficient - changing the angle by a single degree is very easy and doesn't require much metal to be removed.

ShmuelMandelbaum wrote: